Bluegill's 1979 FSJ Cherokee

[Bluegill]

Well I'm finally getting me something else to wheel (now that my wife is elbowing me out of the TJ :roll: ) I wanted something bigger than the TJ, but not too big. Had to be tough (Jeep) too! ;)
Here it is:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/QTMyers23/Jeep/Painted/100_0754.jpg


It's a 1979 Cherokee Sport widetrack - Levi edition. Body & frame are in really good shape, runs drives & rides great. 360 V8 (MC 2100 carb), TH400, Quadratrac, D44 front & rear. It already has a 7" SOA kit from TT's Fabworks installed, and a full hi-steer setup :grin: 35x12.50 el-cheapo AT's - for now ;) I am SO excited!!!! \:D/ Got quite a few plans for it, but first I've got to get it up to my base specs. It has a 109" wheelbase, which is exactly 15" longer than the TJ, so it's perfect for what I want.

I've owned a few tub-body Jeeps, but this is my first FSJ. I've loved the old SJ Cherokee body style ever since I was a kid. Still got to go pick it up though; hopefully that will be this weekend! :grin: Also need to name it - suggestions, anyone :?:

Here's another pic - recognize the J10? ;) I'm buying it from Sam's brother-in-law, and praise the Lord - at a great price!
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/thumpszilla/TRUCK%20BUILD%20UP/Group%20Pics/100_0887.jpg

[HotRodYJ]

NICE, I still love the old FSJ's even though I've never owned one. Maybe one day. 8)

[Monstero]

Looks good rob....will be fun to watch another fullsize on the trail. :wink:
Congrats on the good find

[Hilla-GO-Rilla]

8)
You & Sam have tapped into some class!

niiice :!:

[r1ng3l78]

has it got the original interior? looks too pretty to beat up :cry:

[NC_James]

I would be scared to wheel it.

Too pretty! :smokin:

[Gubni]

I would be scared to wheel it.

Too pretty! :smokin:

I used to feel that way about my Bronco, but I eventually gave up and decided to just have fun.

[Gordon]

:smokin: Cool deal, Rob.

[TiredIronGRB]

Much better for camping and such, I like it.

[Dino1967]

kool :smokin:

[sams_pf]

So far I've been thinking of 2 names for it (could use a few more ideas). Was thinking Blue along the lines of True Blue, but Bluej sounds good too, tBluej. I had a 69 Chevy pu, that was actually Torquois, but everyone called it blue, through many years (and 3 husbands later) it turned to "True Blue". I miss my baby, I loved that truck, it never let me down. Maybe this one will be true for you too.

[sams_pf]

:oops: Yeah, it was more faithful than any husband. Everyone of them tried to get me to get rid of it, I told every one of them I'd get rid of them before I would that truck, reckon I jinx myself? Someone told me if I got rid of the truck I might keep a man, :lol: Just cant find a man to live up to Blue. :lol: I'd still have it if it'd haul the four of us. But Red's the next best thing. :grin:

[Bluegill]

Still deciding on a name. I tend to use a name that starts with the first letter of the rig's color, and in my world cars have girls names and trucks have guys names. Bubba still tops my list - this Jeep is big, tough, loyal, and simple. To me that is a Bubba - a big brother to lean on :wink: Butch would work too. Shawn I like the idea of BlueJ - even BJ is neat. One person recommended Levi, from it's trim edition - thing is the original Levi denim seats are gone - this is what the interior looks like now:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/QTMyers23/Jeep/100_0435.jpg

I think Levi would be neat from a Biblical perspective :wink:

[TiredIronGRB]

I never got that attached to a vehicle to name it.

[chaser]

I like BlueJ sounds good

[Dino1967]

I like BlueJ sounds goodx2

[Bluegill]

One thing I should note - There was already a "Blue" in my life, and I am still sentimental about it. I learned how to drive in a '66 Chevy fleetside - that my dad named Blue. The Cherokee will not share that one. Besides, it won't always be the color blue :wink:

[Gordon]

Rob, I think Chief sounds good.

[redplastic2p3t]

I never got that attached to a vehicle to name it.


x2 :lol: but for some reason ive still got the runner

[MarkH]

"Babe" as in blue ox. But you said it may not stay blue...so just pick out your favorite Indian chief of yor and tag it. Maybe Geronimo or Dragging Canoe! :shock:
Still miss my '79. I even drive by every once in a while to eyeball it. What a Godsend that truck was (for me) in it's time. It had personality.

[MyBeau99]

I never got that attached to a vehicle to name it.

My Tempo was named "Josh"... and it had a personality, because the horn didn't work so well... it was a very wimpy horn, so "Josh's" personality was that he was an old withered man, who happened to be a little bit on the sissy side... :roll:


The Ranger is "Beau" and "Beau" ain't no sissy-boy. 8)


When I get my Jeep, it'll be "Dixie Deux" :lol: :lol:

[TiredIronGRB]

Ok I'll play...mine can be the "Coalfield Cruiser"

[MarkH]

I never got that attached to a vehicle to name it.

Actually that 'ol Cherokee I had was known in the family as "The War Wagon" per the John Wayne movie. The K-5 Blazer I had was dubbed the "Snow Beast" by some work mates of mine. I just called it the Blazer...go figure. After 10 years or so the Tj ain't been named, it get's called a few things when I bust a knuckle on it but none of them stick. Probably a good thing! :grin:

[Bluegill]

Got Chief home & a few things done to him today - first on the agenda was to tame the obnoxious roar from the open Y-pipe. New exhaust! Ran a single 2.5" outlet due to limited space around the huge quadratrac t-case, and the gas tank limits a dual pipe setup. Ever heard of Flowking mufflers? These things are awesome! Just a tad quieter than a Flowmaster 50, made by the same company (even looks the same) - BUT - it's 50 state legal 8) Needless to say, the rumble of an AMC V8 is a sweet sound thru these Flowkings :smokin: My only dissapointment with the new exhaust is the tailpipe - the Meinike guys apparently don't work on dedicated rockcrawling rigs much. As it sits the tailpipe will get bashed in, but I'll fix that :wink:

Also had to get a new battery. I chose not to go with Optima because of their charging issues. Yes, I know them quite well - red tops are used on nearly all 12V military vehicles. Even had one puke on me in my old Dodge 1ton. I bought a HD deep cycle 950amp AGM model made by Deca instead. Me likey :grin:

The high steer definitely needs work before any serious wheeling. The previous owner used a stock tie rod & ends on it, and as a result it isn't even .125" above the springs. :shock:

I was blessed with a multitude of spare parts that came with this beast, and the first one to get transplanted will be the rear axle. It's from a J-10 and is 3" wider than Chief's axle. The stock front axle has Spidertrax billet spacers on it, so once the rear is swapped the track width will match.

As it sits now, Chief will barely fit under my 7ft garage door. Once it gets some real claws at the corners and 1.5" lifted shackles I doubt it will go under anymore.

Got alot of little things to fix, but first is seatbelts :shock: and getting the tailgate window to function :? Sam, thanks for all the help man! :wink:

[Jeep07]

Those things look great lifted. Can't wait to see it ready. Take lots of pics during the build.

[Bluegill]

Wes, I'll be sure to get plenty of pics. As Chief sits now, the top of the hood is about 2" below the top of my shoulders (I'm 5'11"), so it's already looking sweet as far as lift. Other than a small shackle lift, I think it is "in the air" as far as I want it to be. Just need the shackle lift to eliminate any rubbing issues with wide 36" meats. Total lift after the shackles will be 9".

My short term goal for now is to get Chief as road-worthy as possible. This includes the steering, which I'll be needing advice on high-steer. I don't want it breaking down on the trail from poor maintenance. Got motor oil & filter, tranny fluid & filter, and gear oil for the diffs today. Also got an oil pan gasket, because the underside of the drivetrain is saturated from a bad pan gasket. Ordered a B&M T400 shift kit today ($28 on Summit's website), and QT t-case fluid also. For the next 3 weeks I'll be going over all the mechanicals as much as I possibly can. My goal is to have this beast ready for the April Grace/IAJ Harlan ride. :grin:

[Thumpszilla]

Rob here is the clearance I had after putting the 36's on and before trimming flares and radiator support. I could only turn about halfway before they started hitting. It bent up the flares pretty good too.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/thumpszilla/TRUCK%20BUILD%20UP/6%20Done/FrontDone.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j108/thumpszilla/TRUCK%20BUILD%20UP/6%20Done/AllDone.jpg

[Bluegill]

Ordered shocks today from PORC :grin: Got their house brand ($130 shipped for 4) - same specs as Rancho RS5012 (19" compressed, 32.5" extended). Got the tranny ready to roll yesterday, parts installed, topped off with Lucas. Also did an internal flush of the 360 yesterday, will drop the oil pan, clean & install new gasket, top off with synthetic 10W30 & Lucas over the next 2 nights. Decided not to install the J-10 axle in the rear because the front & rear track widths won't match if I do. The front D44 already has new u-joints, ball joints, and gear oil in it, will change fluid in the rear after the engine is done. Target for trail duty is still the April 13th Harlan ride :twisted:

Gotta admit, I was impressed with how easy the ole beast cranked up - it had been sitting for 2 weeks. Pumped the gas pedal 5 times, let the electric fuel pump build pressure, and it fired right up :grin: Considering the MC2150 carb is tuned too rich, no working choke at all, and there are vacuum hoses that need re-routed, that's doing mighty good in my book!

[Bluegill]

To illustrate how badly my '79 Chief needed shocks, here is a before & after pic of one of each shocks. The one on the right is the old one, God only knows what brand. On the right are the new ones, from PORC. Supposedly their generic brand, but these have Rough Country numbers stamped in them. 19" compressed, 33" extended. And just $129 shipped for all 4 shocks. :smokin:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/shocks.jpg


The frustrating part were the 1" square metal extensions on the ends of the old shocks - they were WELDED to the axle mounts! :shock: Using a die grinder, dremel, and cut-off wheels I had already carefully cut 3 of them off before I thought to snap a picture, but here is one of the driver side front suspension, minus the junk shock:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/frontsusp.jpg


Notice in the pic that the shock "extension" is at an odd angle. Reason being that the axle sway bar mount (obscured by the brake hose) is blocking the direct path from lower shock mount to upper shock mount. That is because when the previous owner did the SOA conversion, he didn't swap sides on the u-bolt plates as recommended So, before I can install the front shocks I have to swap the plates first. :? The rear shocks are already installed though :grin: I also snapped a pic of Chief's emblems - does my signature look a little different? ;)

[LoOnaTik]

Cool man, it's comin' along good! If you need any help just let me know.

[Bluegill]

Thanks Landon! :wink:

Ran into another problem - the u-bolts plates won't swap sides without some additional mods - reason being the passenger side u-bolts are 1/2" larger radius to clear the diff housing. :? Needless to say, my front axle is now unbolted from the springs. After debating what course to take, I chatted with Tad Strickland (co-owner of TT's Fabworks, where the SOA kit came from) on ifsja.org - he recommended cutting the sway bar mounts off the plates, and rewelding them on the opposite side of the plates; thus allowing the sway bar to be hooked up properly. He also advised me against using the stock brake hoses. After inspecting them closely I agreed, because not only are they chaffed & slightly dry-rotted, they just aren't long enough for full flex even with the drop brackets. So I ordered a set of extended braided stainless hoses from BJ's today also. Hopefully I'll have the u-bolt plates modified & installed within the next few days.

[TiredIronGRB]

I relocated my sway bars....






...to the dumpster :!:

[Dino1967]

sounds like you have been having a time
it will all come together
ive been doing a little work also :wink: having problems getting stuff shipped

[Gordon]

Looking great, Rob. It does pay doing it right, also.

[Thumpszilla]

So tad finally got your account fixed then?

[Bluegill]

So tad finally got your account fixed then?

Technically, no - but it's really my fault; haven't posted enough. :lol: I'm still listed as a "new member", and new members can't start new threads. :lol: Talked to him outside the ifsja server.

Thank you gents. Since the brake lines are a safety item, they get high priority in my book. Sure don't want my brakes failing while descending a mountain! :shock: George, I had seriously considered removing the sway bar, but since I haven't driven more than 35 miles in this beast yet, I don't know how well it will handle without it. Never driven an FSJ before this one, so it's new to me - still gotta feel it out. 4,100lbs in the air on flexy springs (11" from top of the 35's to the bottom of the fender at ride height) makes me wonder. I do know that it rides smoother than the TJ though :smokin:

Oh, I forgot to mention - until my fundage can handle it, the home-brewed high steer linkage is coming off. Why? Because the driver side of the tie rod is literally against the spring. Hard to tell in the above pic, but the spring bears wear marks from the rod hitting it. A decent bump on the street causes the steering wheel to try & jerk loose from my grip :shock: Not good! For now I'm installing a dropped pitman arm & hooking up to the factory tie rod. Later when I have the cash (and not so high steer stupid :oops: ) I'll actually use those expensive D44 arms. :lol:

Hey Vince, are we gonna see Blue at Harlan? :wink: Sorry I didn't get much chance to talk to you at church brother.

[Dino1967]

not the april fool crawl but maybe the southern shine crawl still like alot and funds are low

[Bluegill]

Chief is rolling again! :grin: Took a "brother & brother" pic in the driveway:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM0837.jpg

The ride is MUCH better with the correct shocks, steering, and sway bar linkages. Should be making a shakedown run this Sunday afternoon at Paint Creek! \:D/ If the t-case shifter would've already been installed today, I would've had a little fun on TVA land about 1 mile from my house :twisted: Bad thing about the quadratrac t-cases with auto trannies, the engine has to be completely shut off before it will shift into/out of low range. The shifter is the next priority.

It's good to be behind the wheel of that distinctive AMC rumble again :smokin:

[Thumpszilla]

according to the manual rolling foward in nuetral at 2mph it will shift but yeah they are definately a pain to shift. Glad it is going again man. I am taking next weekend off on mine then back at it the next weekend.

[Bluegill]

Took it for the first trail ride yesterday - for having Kelly AT tires & open diffs, it did some challenging stuff alot easier than I figured it would 8) Unfortunately we didn't have a working camera handy when I got it into an awesome flex shot. For those who remember Thump's J10 at the big rut in Bumpus, my Chero didn't quite stretch out that far, but very close! :smokin: The 35's did rub the flares a bit when flexed, so they'll get trimmed :twisted:

Still got issues to address, most importantly the brakes HAVE to be upgraded - they're decent on the street, but just not powerful enough off road at very low speeds - mainly thanks to the lock-up converter on the T400 & the torque of the 360 V8. Also found out that the gas cap doesn't seal good - some spilled out on steep uphill climbs :shock: The carb loaded up a few times uphill, will tweak it's tuning for that. Downhill & off camber the MC2150 didn't have any issues though. Need to finish the overhaul of the tailgate too - it sounded like a steel toolbox full of nuts & bolts being banged around back there :lol:

Current "to do" list:
Install rear bumper (scheduled for Monday)
Install front lock-out hubs
Install new brake pads & shoes
Bleed brakes
Wire the CB up

Oh yeah, I also drove home without the sway bar attached - in the middle of pretty big wind gusts. It did great, so I may leave it disconnected.

[Gordon]

Sounds like all fairly small stuff, in the big picture. Sure wished I coulda been on the shakedown run.

[LoOnaTik]

Need to finish the overhaul of the tailgate too - it sounded like a steel toolbox full of nuts & bolts being banged around back there :lol:

What? Did you post something? I can't hear you!

[Bluegill]

Need to finish the overhaul of the tailgate too - it sounded like a steel toolbox full of nuts & bolts being banged around back there :lol:

What? Did you post something? I can't hear you!

:lol: :lol: :lol:
I remember you saying your truck made alot of noises - until you rode in mine :lol:

[LoOnaTik]

Mine does make alot of noises, yours just makes one REALLY loud one!!

[Bluegill]

Took the ole beast for a spin today - and added 118lbs of antique steel to the rear end :wink: I pity anyone who rear-ends this thing! :lol: I'll try to get a pic of the tree masher (bumper) later. Lost 1" of lift in the rear from it though :lol: Oh, for anyone wondering - the loud noises in the rear are the result of previous ownership removing (via sawzall) the 2 rear body mounts :shock: The body was hitting the rear frame crossrail! The missing body mounts will be replaced by ones attached to the 3/8" thick bumper 8)

[r1ng3l78]

:lol: wow, your really thought that one out.

[LoOnaTik]

Make sure you shine those tires up when you get em on :lol:

[Bluegill]

Make sure you shine those tires up when you get em on :lol:

Certainly! :lol: With rubbing compound "au naturale".........MUD! :twisted:

By the way, Landon - found out today that "Evergreen Cove" sure has changed alot......when did they pave the parking lot and put guardrails up?

[LoOnaTik]

It's been about a year...I guess. Looks a whole lot different, no muddy tracks coming out on the road :cry:

[Bluegill]

Update - these things were accomplished in the past week (broken fingers and all :oops: ):

Removed "leak-o-matic" transfer case & installed a rebuilt t-case.
Had front driveshaft lengthened to correct size.
Inspected & lubed all u-joints.
Installed Skyjacker steering stabilizer.
Corrected several vacuum leaks
Fixed a botched mounting of the drivers side rear tire. :?
Just finished installing the front braided brake hoses & bleeding the system (yeah, I know - took me long enough :oops: :lol: )

Hopefully I'll get some action shots of the beast tomorrow at Bays :wink:

[Redman_30_06]

Sounds like your ready to roll. :grin:

[Bluegill]

You betcha! :twisted:

Haven't really touched the subject of engine mods yet, but when my beast can do this I'll be happy:

YouTube- Making Donuts

:smokin:

[Dino1967]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

[Tom-Boy]

:(
Unfortunately, more work to be done before hitting trail.

[Bluegill]

Got more done today, electrical this time - replaced all the wimpy worn out stock 4ga battery cables with new 2ga cables. The stock switch to starter cable was 6ga :shock: but it is 2ga now 8) Cleaned up & organized the rat's nest of auxillary battery wiring (fuel pump, fan, etc) into a nice & neat fusebox on the inner fenderwell. My fiasco with the starter last weekend left the battery drained to 25%, so it is trickle charging now. Bypassed the ammeter (common fire prevention mod for FSJ's). Once the battery finishes charging I'll test the starter out tomorrow evening.

Originally I thought the starter went bad, but my testing showed that the FSJ had electrical flow problems that were the root cause. If the starter fails the real test tomorrow, it will be replaced. Kinda dreading that, because it will also create another opportunity - to replace the oil pan gasket (more work, less wheeling :roll: ) The gasket isn't a "have to" thing, just one of many loose ends to tie up - it hardly leaks since the Lucas oil treatment. My tests on the starter show it still has life in it, maybe from the oil bath it had for years :lol: Of course, the fact that this beast drained a new 900amp AGM battery means that the wimpy 63amp stock Delco alternator has got to go!

I can count on one hand the Grace members who've seen this beast on the road :cry: .......I can hardly wait to get it running again! http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/images/smilies/custom/xj.gif

[Bluegill]

\:D/ Chuck rides again! One second after turning the key, the 360 roared to life. :smokin: Took it for a spin to Rutledge and delivered a cabinet to Thumpszilla. Gave the Baja Claws a small test ramping then climbing Sam's wet clay bank.....and the beast barely even spun a tire 8)

[Gordon]

:smokin: :smokin: Maybe do a Paint run here in a week or so????

[Bluegill]

If I'm off work - you betcha! :smokin:

Until I can replace the t-case Edrive diaphram, I'm going to put drive flanges back on the front hubs, so I don't risk destroying my lockouts. Without Edrive on the Quadratrac, I can't leave the hubs unlocked :( Back to full time 4wd for now, I guess :roll:

[Bluegill]

Today: removed the lockouts & re-installed the drive flanges. Clearanced the front spring plates so they won't dent the shocks anymore when flexed :oops: Will finish wiring the CB tonight before going to bed.

[Bluegill]

Well, as those who were present at Bumpus on 6-10-07 can testify to.....you don't want to break a driveshaft on a Quadratrac case equipped rig when E-drive (t-case diff lock) isn't working. The vacuum diaphram that actuates E-drive on my case is shot, and that means if either front or rear yoke loses resistance (i.e, driveshaft) the rig becomes completely immobile :cry: Makes unnerving grinding noises when put in gear while missing a d-shaft :lol: Got the driveshaft repaired (thank you Gordon & Drake!) and back on the road. SO......before I wheel it again, gotta get E-drive working in case another driveline mishap occurs, so it won't be "motionless" :lol:

On another note, I have got to wheel this thing more often - even if on the easy & moderate stuff, because it felt so weird driving it - like I was driving some else's rig off road. Need to get a feel for the old Tank on the trails. BUT - other than not being locked & needing to trim the fender flares, the beast did great off road! :smokin: Since I have a spare set of front & rear axles..... a lincoln-locked rear may be coming soon :wink:

Now for the daunting task of changing the E-drive diaphram while the QT is in the truck :?

[Bluegill]

:lol: I gotta start taking pics when I work on this thing!

Update: new QuadraTrac E-drive shift diaphram installed (man, that was an exercise in micro-surgery! :shock: ). "Miller-locked" the rear axle yesterday :twisted:

[Gordon]

:smokin: Let's hit a trail!

[Bluegill]

You betcha! :smokin: Wish it could be this Sat at Harlan, but I have other obligations. :( May have to wait & play at George's on the 4th. I should be free the 5th & 6th to make some trail runs though! :idea:

I fixed the rear body mounts and started cutting off the fender flares today. The mounts look better than stock and are much stronger too 8) I'll have to get pics of the difference before & after the flares being whacked. The driver's front is completely off, the rear on the same side is halfway done. It sure opened things up, the 35's look kinda puny now :lol: FSJ's sure have massive inner fender wells - bet I could stuff a 42" in there! :grin:

[Bluegill]

Finally snapped some pics :lol: Here are views before the fender flare mod (pass side) and after the mod (driver side). Keep in mind this is just the rough cut, haven't dressed & painted the modified areas yet. Did this one with a cut-off wheel & die grinder.....man that took too much work, so I'll be heading to use a friend's plasma for the other flares. :wink:

Before:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1033.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1032.jpg


After:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1034.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1035.jpg


:lol: IMO, makes the 35x12.50 Baja Claws on stock 15x8 rims look kinda puny, but at least now the flares won't be trying to rip chunks out of the tread!

[Want2Wheel]

That is lookin great.

[Gordon]

Good deal, Rob.

[BroncoMike]

Looking good Rob...!!!

[Dino1967]

Looking good Rob...!!!x2

[Bluegill]

Thanks fellas!

Hey Landon, guess what I fixed.....took the sledgehammer away from the trunk monkey! :lol: :lol: :lol:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1039.jpg

The "new" rear corner body mounts are welded to the frame (2x2x.250" angle) and to the 3/8" thick bumper. Made a HUGE difference in ride quality, now taking this beast off road feels like driving a Cadillac down a bumpy paved road. 8) Got 95% of the parts to reassemble the tailgate (to factory specs) delivered, still waiting on the adjuster cones though. The last fender flare will be whacked off tomorrow, still need to dress them up though, especially the rear. Got an idea for an inexpensive way to seal the gap between (rear) inner fenderwell & the outer body. It involves "great stuff" & herculiner. :wink:

Also I will be disassembling the front hubs & see what's making the ticking noise :? Bought new u-joints, bearings, and seals just in case. Deadline for reassembly is Wednesday morning. :wink:

[Bluegill]

Oh, in case anyone was wondering how I mounted the CB antenna, here are a couple of pics:
(please pardon the rusty interior roof, haven't refinished that part yet)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1038.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1036.jpg

I bought that mount back when I got the CB for the TJ - but then I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in the TJ's body. Well, when I bought this FSJ it already had a 3/4" hole in the roof that needed to be filled in, so the mount worked perfectly. :grin:

[Bluegill]

Well, for those that missed the God & Country event at George's this year (and couldn't see my "budget beater" in person), here are some pics on the RTI ramp before the crowd got there. Did I mention that full size Jeeps can flex? :lol: Hard to tell in the pics because of the grass, but the driver side rear tire is on the edge of the ramp.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/RTI%20ramp%207-4-07/HPIM1041.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/RTI%20ramp%207-4-07/HPIM1044.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/RTI%20ramp%207-4-07/HPIM1046.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/RTI%20ramp%207-4-07/HPIM1043.jpg


I'm pretty happy with the suspension. :smokin:

[Gordon]

Sweet deal, Rob :smokin: Sure sorry I had to miss out yesterday. Looks like a fun time was had by all.

[Derrickalda]

i saw one of these stretched into a limo the other day in leadville

[Bluegill]

Finally got around to addressing my front driveshaft issue. At the last Bumpus run I broke the very shoddy weld at the double cardan, and Drake (Pitch) did a masterful job tig welding it for me. After that day, the shaft was still straight. On July 5th, I took some friends from work to Harlan. Not sure which trail this could've happened on, but the front shaft definitely got bent.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1092.jpg

The remedy? Replace the puney 1.25" OD tube with the 2" OD tube from this old Chevy front shaft. More than likely will cut the Chevy CV off & weld my Jeep CV on, since the axle u-joints are the same.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1093.jpg

[Marty G]

whts up bluegill if it is the same joint can you take the cv joints first u jouint (driveline side) out and put the chevy driveline directlee on the fsj cv u joint? have the cv ball fitting machened off the chevy if the fsj dosent have one

if not find a 69-72 cv thea are made just like yours and maybe later models too ive seen a lot of those on older fords too

[Bluegill]

whts up bluegill if it is the same joint can you take the cv joints first u jouint (driveline side) out and put the chevy driveline directlee on the fsj cv u joint? have the cv ball fitting machened off the chevy if the fsj dosent have one

Thanks Marty, I probably could - but either way the Chevy shaft has to be shortened and the Jeep CV allows more angle. Welding the CV isn't an issue, I have a very capable tool & die shop at work - and I used to weld on aircraft for a living. :wink: The FSJ CV also has a centering ball.

[Bluegill]

Got the front driveshafts "morphed" late last night. Not my best welding, but did make it very strong:
(it's been 14 months since my last TIG weld)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1096.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1094.jpg

3 passes with 680 filler rod (TIG), then laced a finish pass. Doubt the weld will break, just hoping that my centering of the yoke in the tube is good enough to limit vibration. I left a 1" long stub of the small tube to use as a guide, but the Chevy tube was bigger ID than the old small tube.

Since the heat cooked the CV u-joints, all 3 joints will be replaced before installation. Another great thing about this mod besides the larger diameter tube is that the Chevy shaft has 3" of slip travel, while the FSJ shaft only had 2" of slip.

[Gordon]

Sweet! That should end your D/S woes for sure. Lady Bumpus, beware :twisted:

[Dino1967]

nice

[Marty G]

lookin good

[Bluegill]

Went for a shakedown with the new front driveshaft Saturday. Although it wasn't planned to be balanced, I am very well pleased with the ride quality of the new shaft. Other than the roar of the Baja Claws and slight tire balance issues, the beast rode great at 65mph.

Went back to the "poor man's 2wd" setup - Quadratrac transfer cases are full-time 4wd btw - removed the front drive flanges, installed the Warn HD lockout hubs & leaving the t-case in E-drive at all times (E-drive locks the front & rear driveshafts together at the same speed - bypasses the viscous coupler/differential). Front driveshaft & axle still turn at all times, but they have no contact with the road until the hubs are locked in; then it is in 4wd. Crude but effective.

The front shaft did reveal an unexpected issue though - the new centering yoke I put in the double cardan apparently is thicker than the old one (it was completely shot), and is binding on the transfer case yoke when the axle droops further than 2". This HAS to be corrected before it's next run, due to the ease of which the FSJ flexes the front axle. The plan is to mark the DC & t-case yoke showing where they are binding, remove both & grind for extra clearance, then re-install.

I used these 1310 u-joints in the new shaft:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=1926829164&line=PRE&itemNumber=280&exactItemNumberIndex=4&didSearchFor=280&bid=1187593912783&cycleCount=1769&currentPage=0

[Hadfield4WD]

Went for a shakedown with the new front driveshaft Saturday. Although it wasn't planned to be balanced, I am very well pleased with the ride quality of the new shaft. Other than the roar of the Baja Claws and slight tire balance issues, the beast rode great at 65mph.

Went back to the "poor man's 2wd" setup - Quadratrac transfer cases are full-time 4wd btw - removed the front drive flanges, installed the Warn HD lockout hubs & leaving the t-case in E-drive at all times (E-drive locks the front & rear driveshafts together at the same speed - bypasses the viscous coupler/differential). Front driveshaft & axle still turn at all times, but they have no contact with the road until the hubs are locked in; then it is in 4wd. Crude but effective.

The front shaft did reveal an unexpected issue though - the new centering yoke I put in the double cardan apparently is thicker than the old one (it was completely shot), and is binding on the transfer case yoke when the axle droops further than 2". This HAS to be corrected before it's next run, due to the ease of which the FSJ flexes the front axle. The plan is to mark the DC & t-case yoke showing where they are binding, remove both & grind for extra clearance, then re-install.

I used these 1310 u-joints in the new shaft:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=1926829164&line=PRE&itemNumber=280&exactItemNumberIndex=4&didSearchFor=280&bid=1187593912783&cycleCount=1769&currentPage=0

for balance I use airsoft pellets with no problems. In 36" tsl's and my dd. I use spicer joints and the dealer here only charges $9 ea.

[Bluegill]

Finally addressing the FSJ's front axle since the TJ's front is finished. Found the root cause of my squeak on the Labor Day Stoney Creek ride:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1158.jpg

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Tell me God wasn't watching over me on that trip..........wow :!: I drove it the 50+ miles home.......and the FSJ is full time 4wd, the axles turn at all times - even with the hubs unlocked, the shafts were still turning. That is a Spicer joint that the previous owner installed about 1 year before I bought the Jeep.

Thank you Lord :!:

This job is going to take a while, replacing all hub & spindle bearings, and seals - as well as new (and stronger) u-joints. Problem is not much time to dedicate to it. The previous owner also installed new ball joints when he replaced the 297's, and they're still in great shape.

[TiredIronGRB]

Close call for sure :shock:

[Bluegill]

FINALLY getting work done on the front axle. I know, I know, it isn't anything special, but I felt the need to post up for others who haven't yet experienced doing axle work. Notice the pic in my last post. After installing a new u-joint I found out why that cap came loose; the yoke hole for that cap is slightly (as in .006") oversize. I always smear a dab of grease in the hole before installing new caps, and once it was all reassembled the cap would turn inside the yoke. :shock: The ideal solution is to replace the stub shaft, and that will be done later on. My solution: used a bit of blue threadlocker in the hole (instead of grease) and on the retainer clip. The cap still wanted to move slightly, so I did this also:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20axle/HPIM1159.jpg


Notice the seven small & shiny dents on the yoke around the cap? I used a large center punch and a good whack from the 32oz ballpeen to make each one. They are strategically located to force the yoke hole to clamp onto the cap. It worked nicely, although I will still keep a close eye on this particular cap - a nice side effect of doing this is that it makes the suspect yoke hole easy to identify on the trail. :wink:

I had seriously mulled over getting Alloy USA's X-joints for the FSJ, but after hearing of many issues they had with the first few runs of caps - I opted not to. Instead I got these, lifetime warrantied from O'Reillys:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20axle/HPIM1160.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20axle/HPIM1161.jpg

(these are replacements for 297X Spicer joints)

I am impressed with their quality & craftsmanship. Much more attention to detail than factory joints. Shoot, even the needle bearings are 3/16" longer than the Spicer joint's that I removed. Unfortunately they don't have flush zerks in the caps like the diagram shows. That's the only improvement I'd make to them. Now, the next question is - which grease? IMO, you shouldn't buy ANY other grease than this (http://www.greengrease.net) stuff - it's the best you can get, and it isn't that expensive ($8 for a 14oz cartridge, IIRC). A little on the sticky side for grease, but everyone who has used it swears by this stuff. :wink:

I am also replacing the brake pads, all hub & spindle bearings, seals, nuts, and washers. :grin:


Stay tuned...........I have a beautiful steering brace & lifted shackles still to install. Oh, and OBA too. 8)

[Hadfield4WD]

For axle joints I use the yukon's. Very beefy and not as expensive as CTM's or Longs. I do have alloy shafts as well. I would be watching that cap area for cracking and maybe spot weld the cap in.

I have never used that grease. The yukons come with there own and that is what I put in them. I just use the regular stuff in the drive shafts and check before every run. I do a thorough (usually about 2 hours) inspection before every run. I always find something, but I'm sure not everything. I recommend this for everybody.

Also did you try the airsoft pellets?

[Bluegill]

When I get ChrMo shafts, either Yukon or CTM joints will join them. :wink: Don't need the airsoft pellets - just ask Thumpszilla. On Labor Day, I drove this beast from 6:30am until hitting Stoney Creek at 9:30am - including 75mph on I-81. Rode smooth as silk, er well at least as much like a Cadillac as a lifted beater on roaring tires can. :smokin: Sam was riding shotgun.

[Bluegill]

SWEEET!!!! :grin:

Thumpszilla posted a vid of my FSJ on George's RTI ramp from July 4th:
http://www.hillbilly4x4.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showpic&pid=4&orderby=dateA


Shows that I need to tweak my suspension a little bit, the front droops really good but doesn't compress as well as I'd like. The rear does great in both droop & compress....just gotta do something about my gargantuan bumper. :lol:

Thanks Sam!

[Hadfield4WD]

SWEEET!!!! :grin:

Thumpszilla posted a vid of my FSJ on George's RTI ramp from July 4th:
http://www.hillbilly4x4.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=My_eGallery&file=index&do=showpic&pid=4&orderby=dateA


Shows that I need to tweak my suspension a little bit, the front droops really good but doesn't compress as well as I'd like. The rear does great in both droop & compress....just gotta do something about my gargantuan bumper. :lol:

Thanks Sam!

Yep. Looking at that vid the front doesn't stuff. Tweaking suspension is a never ending ordeal.

[Thumpszilla]

No problem man. wanted to get it posted a long time ago.

[Bluegill]

Finally addressed my departure angle (or lack thereof) yesterday. Installed 2" longer shackles from BJ's Offroad (http://www.bjsoffroad.com). Snapped a comparison pic between the stock shackle (on the right) and the BJ's shackle (on the left). The sides of the stock shackle are 1/8" thick (puney), sides of the BJ's shackle are 3/8" thick (beefy), plus the thick powdercoat & poly bushings give them another plus. ;-)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/HPIM1200.jpg


Keep in mind, for all FSJ's, a shackle lift in the rear only works if the shackles are already flipped. Stock, they are configured very much like GM & Dodge full size trucks. Anyway, this mod removed the sag from my Cherokee's rear bumper. Now, I have 11" from top of tire to bottom of fender up front, and 12" between the same points on the rear. The 35" tires look even smaller, but until I get a D60 under the back end, the tires ain't gonna get any bigger than 36". :(

The only other departure angle improvements my FSJ will get are bumper modifications (if you haven't seen it yet, it resembles a mid-size snow plow) :lol:

Once I finish the front bumper & install the winch on it, I'll have to get another pair of these shackles up front to offset the sag from the extra 200lbs.

[Hadfield4WD]

Those look nice. How about a profile view of the Jeep before and after. That would be nice to see the difference.

[Bluegill]

I need to wash the month old mud off it first. :oops: Don't think I have a good "before" side profile pic other than a video or two and this old one (that didn't turn out well):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/God%20and%20Country%207-4-07/HPIM1049.jpg


That pic is with the driver side drooped a bit. Now, with the new shackles - sitting on level ground fully loaded with gear, the rear tires are at the same point on the body that the above picture shows.

[Bluegill]

Btw, the Ford F250 shock towers fixed the front suspension stuff issue - and they bolted up to existing frame holes too. 8) I'll have to get pics later.

[Dino1967]

very kool

[Bluegill]

After a few proddings, figured I'd post up some pics on the front shock mount mod. So far I only have one side finished, as I HAD to do the passenger side (Dodge Hill at Stoney Creek, ripped the stud out of the factory tower).

I used Ford F250/F350 front shock towers, part # E5TZ-18183-A ($13 each at my local dealer), very beefy & strong. These come with two 1/2" mounting holes in them, turns out these holes line up perfectly with 2 existing holes in the later model FSJ frame, although the Jeep holes are smaller.

Here's a couple "before" pics (the driver side):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1208.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1207.jpg


In this pic, I circled the 2 holes with green to show where the Ford towers will bolt to:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1203.jpg


The tricky part is that 2 of the factory tower bolts (the ones behind the shock) go thru the engine mount frame horns. Obviously, the stock towers have to be removed, but this also means that one of the frame horn bolts won't be replaced. Fortunately, there was an unused hole in the engine frame horn - which now has a bolt thru it. Because I was rushed for time, I used the stock Jeep bolts which are smaller than the 1/2" holes in the Ford towers, but made bushings from small HREW tube to compensate. My plan is to tack weld both sides of the Ford towers then bore the frame holes out & install 1/2" bolts. To prevent any engine mount issues, I raised the Jeep a bit using a floor jack & long block of wood under the engine oil pan while doing this mod.

Here's some "after" pics (passenger side):
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1206.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1205.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1204.jpg


Results? Stronger mount, straighter shock line (stock leans forward too much), top of shock is 2" higher than stock - which allows for better 'stuff' capability of the suspension. Nice & cheap mod, well worth it! 8)

How has it held up so far? I rode Harlan like this, including some hard bounces on Fish Fossil - works like a charm! :grin:

[TiredIronGRB]

That's wild that they bolt right up :shock:

[Gordon]

Good deal. Vast improvement.

[Hadfield4WD]

It's the little things that make a difference in a well built rig. Nice job.

[fred]

Is there a reason for bolting the shock mounts rather than welding? or even doing both?

[Bluegill]

Is there a reason for bolting the shock mounts rather than welding? or even doing both?

I didn't have a welding machine handy at the time, and the added strength of bolts + welds is what I'm after. :wink: It would be different if the mounting holes weren't there, but since they are - and they match my frame holes, why not use them?

[Dino1967]

good deal
glad you posted up the part number i lost it :wink:

[superal30]

I like the ford tower post I'll definitely have to try that when I get mine up in the air. One question I have is what axle ratio do you have and how does it pull the 35's around on the highway and on the trail?

[Bluegill]

I like the ford tower post I'll definitely have to try that when I get mine up in the air. One question I have is what axle ratio do you have and how does it pull the 35's around on the highway and on the trail?

Mine is a 360, so pulling power is not really an issue. It still has the stock 3.54 gears and TH400. On the highway climbing a hill requires a little heavy right foot to keep from losing too much speed, but otherwise it ain't bad. Definitely won't win any stoplight-to-stoplight races though. On the trail in low range I only have to tap the skinny pedal if the tires hit an obstacle. Otherwise it just lopes & idles along without any skinny. :smokin: Usually my foot is on the brake pedal and the shifter is in L1. :lol: http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff309/babyjeepwoman/Lil%20Stoney%209-3-07/?action=view&current=CLIP0017.flv is a video which shows a little of that tendency. My rear axle is locked - the cheap way - which does make trail obstacles much easier to crawl over though.

That said, Thumpszilla had a J-10 with a 258 6-cyl running stock 3.54 gears, TH400, and 36" Iroks. That thing was an absolute dog on the highway going the least bit uphill - if it was a long hill you could probably get out & run faster than the truck would go. Basically you gotta have torque to turn bigger meats with stock gears.

[TT's FabWorks]

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/front%20shock%20mounts/HPIM1204.jpg

Rob,
That worked very well.
I noticed a few pages back you used the PORC shocks.
Supposedly their generic brand, but these have Rough Country numbers stamped in them. 19" compressed, 33" extended.
You don't happen to recall that part number do you?
Those sound just about perfect for me out back.

[Marty G]

got that bumper on yet i cant wait to see it on your beast :smokin:

[Bluegill]

got that bumper on yet i cant wait to see it on your beast :smokin:

Not yet bud, my back couldn't take much more than carrying it into the garage :lol: That thing has got to weigh over 150lbs! It sure will look great on it though; measurements show it will fit nicely, with just a bit of overhang on each side. I'll try to get it mocked up & snap a pic or two.


Tad, I'll find the shock numbers & PM you. :wink:

[TT's FabWorks]

Rob,
You can post them if needed.
Tad, I'll find the shock numbers & PM you. Wink
I watch this site, I think you folks have some great stuff going on here.

[Bluegill]

Well, I got the front bumper mocked up. Pretty big loss of approach angle, but having a place for my winch combined with a deer masher this stout - it's worth it. :smokin: Pardon my dirty garage, and the low-res pics (phone camera):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/bumpers/PIC-0002.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/bumpers/PIC-0003.jpg

[Marty G]

crazy idea how about loosing the valnce and putting the lights in the bumper or grill :idea:

[NC_James]

I agree with marty

[Bluegill]

crazy idea how about loosing the valnce and putting the lights in the bumper or grill :idea:

If the 1/2" winch plate wasn't so high up inside the bumper I would definitely do that. But with the winch mounted that high up, it would not only block airflow to the radiator, but also I'd have to remove the pig nose grille because the winch would be past hitting it (ie, large hole in grille). The center of the valance is critical for radiator support. That is a neat idea though Marty. :wink:

That pic was just a quick mock-up, as high as my 6ton jack stands would go. Final fit will be more tucked in, probably have to trim the edge of the valance to clear the winch. Also going to need 2" longer shackles to compensate for the sag the ~230lbs will cause (bumper + winch) 8)

[Hadfield4WD]

Looks like you will lose tons of approach angle. But that bumper looks like it will be able to take whatever you throw at it. You will just hit some things with it then push over. Everything is a trade-off.

[Bluegill]

I watch this site, I think you folks have some great stuff going on here.

Thank you sir, but we owe that to a higher power. :wink:

Checked the shocks, unfortunately I can't locate my invoice from PORC so I checked the stampings on each shock. First off is the "hecho in mexico", then the julian date code, then 658049, which judging by the RC numbering system I assume means part #8049.

I bought these from PORC thinking these were their house brand, didn't know their part #, I just called them up & told them what size I wanted (the compressed & extended lengths), they looked thru their books and said they offered the size I wanted. I mentioned the deal they were offering on Pirate at the time (on their house brand). A price of $130 for all 4 shipped - I wasn't about to complain. To my surprise, these shocks arrived in untouched Rough Country packaging, shipped from Dyersburg Tennessee (PORC is located in GA). That particular town just happens to be RC's hometown.

[Bluegill]

The bumper clearance isn't as bad as it looks Marty, once it is mounted it will be 1.5" higher up and 1" closer to the Jeep than that mock-up picture. Any closer than that will require major mods. Still, at that point the bottom of the bumper will be 23.5" off the ground, and horizontally it only sticks out in front 6" past the stock bumper's front edge. Trust me, it will look nice & clean. 8) The clearance cuts you gave it for the K5 valance mate up perfectly with the FSJ valance. :wink: Believe I'll use the 3"x3"x3/8" angle I have to make the new mounts, tricky part is in the center I also want to mount it to the crossmember, so figuring that out may take a day or two.

By the way, you can't make it out in the low-res pics, but on the hood sits another "to-do" for the big Jeep - new fuel pump & radiator fan relays from 12voltguy.com ...........and the Summit parts are for the drivetrain rebuild/swap project. :wink:

[Marty G]

sounds like your ready for some mods :smokin:
i had 26.5 at the bumper 29.5 with the factory bumper
higher than va law of 29 so i built it to let me do 2ins more lift
if you get a chance see what that thing ways with bathroom scales

i hadent thoght of the valance being the core support for the radiater
its going to look good on the fsj 8)

[Hadfield4WD]

sounds like your ready for some mods :smokin:
i had 26.5 at the bumper 29.5 with the factory bumper
higher than va law of 29 so i built it to let me do 2ins more lift
if you get a chance see what that thing ways with bathroom scales

i hadent thoght of the valance being the core support for the radiater
its going to look good on the fsj 8)

Well a cherokar is worse. I am supposed to be at 24". Good thing I don't drive it much on the road. VA bumper law is is difficult to work with.

[Marty G]

sounds like your ready for some mods :smokin:
i had 26.5 at the bumper 29.5 with the factory bumper
higher than va law of 29 so i built it to let me do 2ins more lift
if you get a chance see what that thing ways with bathroom scales

i hadent thoght of the valance being the core support for the radiater
its going to look good on the fsj 8)

Well a cherokar is worse. I am supposed to be at 24". Good thing I don't drive it much on the road. VA bumper law is is difficult to work with.

dont know if it can still be done but i had a auto sales for years and we dealt in a lot of lifted vehicles if we got a title on a cherokee that said passenger vehicle we would just take it to dmv with a copy of the nada book showing that it is classified in there as a truck all suvs are including the little samis cost $10 for the title work and your at 28 28 :smokin:

sorry for the hyjack bluegill but had to help a brother out

[Hadfield4WD]

dont know if it can still be done but i had a auto sales for years and we dealt in a lot of lifted vehicles if we got a title on a cherokee that said passenger vehicle we would just take it to dmv with a copy of the nada book showing that it is classified in there as a truck all suvs are including the little samis cost $10 for the title work and your at 28 28 :smokin:

sorry for the hyjack bluegill but had to help a brother out

I have tried tons of things. I have been to the DMV selects etc. Not that though I'll try. Thanks.

[Adurbin]

crazy idea how about loosing the valnce and putting the lights in the bumper or grill :idea:

I would agree. Remove the valance, move the bumper/roadkill dinner maker up a few more inches, giving you back some of your approach angle. And what about fabbing a radiator support so that you can do that. As far as the airflow, Scoop the hood. Either way though, that bumper is def. going to look trick on the FSJ.

[Bluegill]

Ya know, I believe I will mount it so the top of the bumper is even with the bottom of the grille. Leave the valance as is other than minor trimming to clear the winch. That will net another 3" of ground clearance. :grin: Keep in mind the FSJ is only wearing these puney 35" tires until the axle swaps are complete; they actually measure 33.75" tall. :( Once the FSJ is wearing actual 38" - 40" meats, the bumper clearance will be alot better.

I'll have to cut out the 1/2" winch plate though, but I have some 3/8" plate in the garage that will work nicely at the proper location (the bottom of the bumper - winch will be completely hidden except the top and fairlead). Looking at some flush mount trailer turn signals now. 8)

[Bluegill]

Believe I'll get these lights & wire them piggy-back with the stock lights:

http://vehiclelight.com/6054a.html

[Dino1967]

Believe I'll get these lights & wire them piggy-back with the stock lights:

http://vehiclelight.com/6054a.htmlver kool

[Marty G]

this sounds like a good plan i wanted to make the winch plate level with the bottom of the frame rails but on the blazer the frame was to narrow for my winch to set between the rails and still be centerd on the bumper



Ya know, I believe I will mount it so the top of the bumper is even with the bottom of the grille. Leave the valance as is other than minor trimming to clear the winch. That will net another 3" of ground clearance. :grin: Keep in mind the FSJ is only wearing these puney 35" tires until the axle swaps are complete; they actually measure 33.75" tall. :( Once the FSJ is wearing actual 38" - 40" meats, the bumper clearance will be alot better.

I'll have to cut out the 1/2" winch plate though, but I have some 3/8" plate in the garage that will work nicely at the proper location (the bottom of the bumper - winch will be completely hidden except the top and fairlead). Looking at some flush mount trailer turn signals now. 8)

[Bluegill]

Wow - looks like I've lost alot of posts & updates. I'll clean my thread up later.

Last night I answered the guys at work who speculated that I didn't even HAVE a Jeep, because they've heard alot about it but never saw it. Bad steering & all, I drove it to the plant. Then at dinner I got bored & decided to flex it a bit:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/PIC-0005.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/PIC-0006.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/PIC-0007.jpg

Looks like i need to move the rear axle back about an inch, which will bump the WB to 110":

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/PIC-0008.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j226/shepherdskeep/Chief/PIC-0010.jpg


Stopped the forklift before the rear time came off the ground - because I realized that the front hubs were unlocked! :icon_eek: These pics were taken with my phone - surprised me they turned out this nice.