ramp design help

[Gubni]

I want to make some ramps for my trailer, but I want them to be as short as possible and still be able to get a mustang on with out high centering. I think I still remember theory, but I don't remember the details of how to make it work. I need to find angle E and get a formula to figure length 4.

On my mustang from bottom of tire to bottom of tire it is 90" the lowest point in the middle has more than 5" of clearance. Length A is 90". Length B and C are the same and angle D to length A is 5". With these numbers you should be able to calculate angle D. Add 180 to angle D and subtract 360 to get angle E. I should be able to set my angle finder on the perfect length ramp and get angle E.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/ramp.JPG

Once I know angle E I should be able to figure angle 1. I know angle 3 will be 90 degrees. Once I get the trailer level and the new tires on I will be able to figure length 2. With that info I should be able to figure length 4.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/ramp2.JPG

[Want2Wheel]

Solve the triangle for the angle to the Lh of triangle. This will be the same as the angle that you are wanting.

[Gubni]

I think 2 times Lh angle would be "E".

[Gordon]

Shawn, perhaps this site will help.

http://www.saltire.com/applets/triangles/triangles.htm

I might opt for grabbing a couple 2X10's to use as templates myself. The geometric measures may give a precise length, but out in the field you have such stuff as uneven terrain, etc. so you'll probably want to round off longer to the next foot in length. Do you have any trailers over at the U-Haul that you could run the Mustang up on, then gage the lengths accordingly? Sorry I didn't offer a more technically engineered answer.

[pplblazerdude]

The ramps will be long if it has to be able to get a mustang on it. My gooseneck that has a dovetail is hard to load cars at times. Its not bad but its not easy.

[Gubni]

Yes, that helps. I got 12.66 degrees for "E". Can someone else confirm this?

Assuming a 24" deck heigth I get a total of 109" which is about 9 foot.

[Gubni]

Ok, so 9 foot is sorta long. I'm thinking of making 4.5 foot long ramps that would be very stout. Then in could have it hinged on one end so it folds out to 9 foot for light weight applications.

The problems are designing the hinge area are it doesn't try to go beyond 180* when folded out without a leg for support at the hinge and trying to keep the wieght down so I can easily set it up and use it when needed.

[pplblazerdude]

Ok, so 9 foot is sorta long. I'm thinking of making 4.5 foot long ramps that would be very stout. Then in could have it hinged on one end so it folds out to 9 foot for light weight applications.

The problems are designing the hinge area are it doesn't try to go beyond 180* when folded out without a leg for support and trying to keep the wieght down so I can easily set it up and use it when needed. Are the ramps going to be removed ever time if so why not make two sets?

[Want2Wheel]

What about building a plain 5 ft ramp, and then having a piece that you could just slip on there if you are going to haul a mustang, or other car.
If you built it like you are thinking you could use a spring to help pick it up. Like a garage door spring. Just a thought. Rob

[Gubni]

Yes, they will. I could and probably should do that. It means extra expense in buying the material, extra time building them, and extra time making pockets to store them in the trailer, but still probably the best solution.

Maybe make the 4.5 foot ramp permanently attached, and then the 9 foot as a slide in that would sit on the 4.5 foot?

So what material should I build them out of? I want the lightest material that will hold the weight.

[Gubni]

What about building a plain 5 ft ramp, and then having a piece that you could just slip on there if you are going to haul a mustang, or other car.
If you built it like you are thinking you could use a spring to help pick it up. Like a garage door spring. Just a thought. Rob

Like a slide on extension. I really like that ideal. I would think that 6" of overlap area would suffice. That would be best for material use because steel comes in 20 foot lengths.

[Want2Wheel]

If you do the slide on idea I would use pins to keep it in place.

[Gubni]

With that ideal I could also make it a uneven joint and thereby giving it a little arch at the joint like pickup truck bed ramps which would allow me to load a car that had less clearance also.

[Gubni]

I think 2x2x 1/4 angle would be best for the job.

[pplblazerdude]

I think 2x2x 1/4 angle would be best for the job. Them ramps will be pretty heavy will they not?

[r1ng3l78]

put airbags on it and slam the trailer. bling bling 8)

[pplblazerdude]

put airbags on it and slam the trailer. bling bling 8) thats the thing to do man.

[Gubni]

I think 2x2x 1/4 angle would be best for the job. Them ramps will be pretty heavy will they not?

Well if I had the first part on spring assist it would be no weight there. Then I would only be looking at 5 foot for the extension, but that may still be too much.


put airbags on it and slam the trailer. bling bling 8)

Sorry, finance dept denied my request. Something about being in the red?

[pplblazerdude]

I think 2x2x 1/4 angle would be best for the job. Them ramps will be pretty heavy will they not?

Well if I had the first part on spring assist it would be no weight there. Then I would only be looking at 5 foot for the extension, but that may still be too much.


put airbags on it and slam the trailer. bling bling 8)

Sorry, finance dept denied my request. Something about being in the red? ahh sorry missed the spring part. I was thinking with out the spring part. I know the ramps on our delta are very heavy you have to be carefull putting them up and down not to hurt yourself.

[HotRodYJ]

The hinge is easy. The new ones I built for mine are 8 ft long and fold in the middle. I loaded a 72 Blazer on them and the hinge is not a problem. I'll get some pics. The ideal material is 3" channel. 2" angle would probably work okay, but going that long and with a heav vehcile 3" channel would do so much better. I used 1.5" square since that's all I had and topped it with 2x12's. They do fine but they do bow quite a bit when you get something heavy like a fullsize Blazer on them, but they snap right back. They don't bend very much at all with my Jeep. If you use 3" channel like George's and all other heavy duty trailers use, you wont have any issues. Make them 9ft or 10ft if you want, the 3" channel will do the job easily. also attach them to the rear of the trailer with a shaft so you don't have to wrestle with the weight of them cause they will be heavy. On mine I simpley pull a pin and let them down. Easy as pie. And I know these wont fall off!

My Dad is in the process of lengthing his ramps very similar to mine. He has a factury built HD trailer that uses the 3" channel ramps like George's that flip up on the rear. He's adding 3 or 4 ft to his ramps very similar to how I did mine and using 3" channel with 2" angle cross-pieces to match the way the ramps are orignally built.

[HotRodYJ]

Yes, that helps. I got 12.66 degrees for "E". Can someone else confirm this?

Assuming a 24" deck heigth I get a total of 109" which is about 9 foot.

Confirmed. Angle E is 12.68 degrees, and length 4 is 9'-1 5/16" assuming 24" off the ground.

(I drew it out in CADD and measured it :smokin: )

[BillM]

Someone doesn't have enough to do....;)

[HotRodYJ]

Someone doesn't have enough to do....;)
It took about a minute and a half. :lol:

[BillM]

:tongue: That would take me at least 2 days to draw on CAD...LOL

[Rtaylor]

If you use 3" channel like George's and all other heavy duty trailers use, you wont have any issues. Make them 9ft or 10ft if you want, the 3" channel will do the job easily. also attach them to the rear of the trailer with a shaft so you don't have to wrestle with the weight of them cause they will be heavy. On mine I simpley pull a pin and let them down. Easy as pie. And I know these wont fall off!
quote

If you want to stress test them I've got something that might prove your design...... ##( The first act of the 'Mog was to bend my ramps almost 90 degrees! My new 10 ton trailer has the huge (read heavy) ramps that are about 4-5 feet long with built in legs. It's nice to be able to load the 'Mog without lifting the back of the Silverado off of the ground! 8)

[Want2Wheel]

That is just not right.

[HotRodYJ]

This pic is a little deceiveing but you can see the hinge design I used. The square tube is actually contacting so that's what takes the stress. The wood also touch's but the steel does most of the work. The last pic makes it loook like ther's a gap and there isn't, just a bad pic. The cross pieces are touching although you can't see them.

You can see all the pics here...
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=69

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/trailer_003.jpg


http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/trailer_005.jpg

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/trailer_006.jpg

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10013/trailer_008.jpg

[Gubni]

Very nice!

[Monstero]

I like that design. If it were me I would incorporate that design with the style of George's with the little leg that comes down to support the rear of the trailer. But thats just me... :wink: hehe

[HotRodYJ]

Would've been much nicer with heavier steel, but you use what you've got and it does work for my needs. I may eventually add a short leg under the center hinge just to keep the 8ft ramp from sagging to far with a heavy load on it. That leg would only be about 10-12" long.

[HotRodYJ]

You can easily set the pivot point closer to the bottom of the steel so that the ramps fold virtually flat against each other. I spaced these out a little for added strength since I'm used such small square material.

As I've said before, my Dad is extending his factory 3" channel ramps in a similar way adding another 4 ft or so. He is using 3/16" plate and a 5/8" rod for the pivot. i think his 5/8" rod will go the full width side to side and his pivot point is much closer to the steel. He says his should end up about 5/8" spce between the ramp sections when folded. Mine is more like 2". I used 1/4" plate and 3/4" grade 8 bolts drilled and pinned so they wont fall off since they have to stay loose to pivot.

[Gubni]

Hope to get started on this project soon. Thanks for all the help HR!

[Dino1967]

dont lose thread ive been working on my trailer over the holidays and im going to have to build me some ramps also

kool i finially figured out how to do a link
http://www.4x4grace.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=53004#53004

[Gubni]

I think I'm going to use 2x1 channel. I will turn the C facing each other and slide a 2x12 between them. I will tie the two pieces of channel together every 18" with a piece of 1" plate.

[HotRodYJ]

I think I'm going to use 2x1 channel. I will turn the C facing each other and slide a 2x12 between them. I will tie the two pieces of channel together every 18" with a piece of 1" plate.

Sounds like a good idea to me

[Gubni]

I still haven't got this done yet, so bumping so it doesn't get purged.

[crackerjack]

You guys are more mechanical than I. But could you get one of those tongue lifts with a crank. Then jack up the front of trailer to get tail end closer to ground ?

[Gubni]

You guys are more mechanical than I. But could you get one of those tongue lifts with a crank. Then jack up the front of trailer to get tail end closer to ground ?


The wheels are too far back for that to happen. Thanks for the ideal.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

What about a small tongue lift on the ramps so you can use them as ajustable supports.

[Gubni]

What about a small tongue lift on the ramps so you can use them as ajustable supports.


??? Sorry, but I have no ideal what you mean.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

they have smaller tongue lifts and you could placeone on the side of the ramp close to where it bends. Then you could adjust the support to meet the ground. I have seen smaller ones on some small trailors and they pivot


it sounded like a good idea but it maybe one of those it only looks good on paper.

[Gubni]

I got ya now. That would make a support in the middle. Might be more hassle than it's worth, but thanks for the ideal.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

could always just carry a couple of large wedges to slide under the ramps for support. :?

[Gubni]

Anti-purge bump. I hope to do this in the next day or two.