2000 Xterra Build

[Jeep07]

OK so I figured i would start a build thread.

I need to get some leaf shims or wedges for my front axle. What is the best place to buy these? Steel only. George what degree did you mention?

Thanks all.

[TiredIronGRB]

I would say about 4*
like these... (http://www.rubiconmfg.com/images/pages/img.asp?image=/images/RE1467.jpg)

[Gubni]

I think I have an extra set for $20

[pplblazerdude]

Here are some of those shims!!!! http://jkwoffroad.com/offroadproducts.php

[Jeep07]

Thanks Clint, On there way.

Now time to educate me.

On the D60 I had what looks to be a 1350 Yoke. 1350 Flange type deal at the tcase?

Now a double cardan driveshaft seems to be in the near future. Can I buy one of these and have it modified to fit? Or should I just drive to bowman or fleet pride and say build one? and let them find the parts? I do need alot of slip which is what makes me think I can't buy one.

Thanks and I appreciate the help.

[HotRodYJ]

I doubt you'll find a long slip you can use in the junkyard. It may be best to talk to Bowman and see what they can do for you.

Depending on how ambishious you are, you could change the way your front leafs are mounted and put the shackles in front (like a Jeep). That will eliminate the need for a long travel d-shaft. That's how I plan to do my X, when I get around to it, for that very reason.

[Hokie_YJ]

I think that's a good idea Brian. My YJ had shackle reversal on it, but with my SOA I went back to the stock configuration. It seems to perform better offroad.

[pplblazerdude]

Could also look into tom woods Or High angle both will cost you but both are very good choices on Driveshafts. Only thing I dislike about the shackle in the front is they seem vulnerable and like they could hender you. Just my 2 cents

[r1ng3l78]

tom woods is the biggest con in driveshafts. but if you like the free bumper sticker and are willing to pay 4x what bowmans would probably charge make sure you pay extra for the warranty warranty. they told me that my lifetime warranty was only valid if i had paid some 50 buck extra fee when i ordered and hung up on me so i'm a little bitter. :x

[HANO]

Also The "gold seal" u-joints TW uses w/ the gurantee is because they are cheap China joints (thats how they can afford to replace them when they go out.). I was told this by another manufacturer, so I called TW and asked him, and he stated yes they were made in China and they were better in price than the US brand and that is important as they buy in bulk. He feels they are good enough in quality or comparable, but I won't use his stuff anymore.....

Jesse @ highangle is decent on price, but again higher than most local shops.......

[Jeep07]

I talked to bowmans today. Super nice guy!. Once I get the shims on I'm gonna run it up to him and let him take care of it. It will be nice not having to worry about the front drive shaft anymore ;).

[Jeep07]

OK, I did some fixes.

First here is what my prev rad fan looked like.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/radfanreplacement/images/dscn1373.jpg

So thanks to shawn hooking me up with one of his volvo fans the replacement looks like this.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/radfanreplacement/images/dscn1377.jpg


Here are the pics of my axle shim install
http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1348.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1349.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1351.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1355.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1356.jpg


Finished.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1370.jpg


http://www.wesleycombs.com/axleshiminstall/images/dscn1372.jpg

[TiredIronGRB]

Much better and DANG that fan is perfect for that radiator :shock: :!:

[Jeep07]

My welded yoke.

Last trip to harlan the tab broke off the side of my 1350 yoke. So I have ordered a new one but in the mean time I tried to make this one workable and good enough for a spare on the trail.

Broken Tab
http://www.wesleycombs.com/1350yoke/images/dscn1364.jpg


My rig up.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/1350yoke/images/dscn1368.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/1350yoke/images/dscn1369.jpg


My new yoke should be here tommorow to replace this one.

[TNRanger]

Man that's an ugly driveshaft in there :lol: :lol:

Both upgrades a definite improvement. I really hope that fixes your heat issue.

[r1ng3l78]

Man that's an ugly driveshaft in there :lol: :lol:

Both upgrades a definite improvement. I really hope that fixes your heat issue.

ah ye olde square shaft. simple, timeless, a true classic. :lol: oh well, they're cheap, easy to build and work in a pinch right.

[Jeep07]

I just took my other measurements.

31" extended.
26" normal
22" compressed (this is how far the current dshaft will compress)

My angle looks like 18*-20* normal height. From my visio diagrams and basic geometry my extended angle is about 28*-31*.

[HotRodYJ]

Double check your castor angle. Make sure you still have a couple degrees positive or it'll be all over the road.

[Gordon]

Lookin' good, Wes.

[Jeep07]

Double check your castor angle.

How do I do this?

[HotRodYJ]

Double check your castor angle.

How do I do this?

Use an angle finder and find a place that is perfectly perpendicular to the angle thru the ball joints. Usually the top of the Inner C or something like that maybe even the top balljoint itself will be flat enough to measure. Caster is the angle if you viewed the ball joints from the view point of looking at the wheel, but with the wheel, rotor, etc removed) draw a line thru the top ball joint and down thru the bottom balljoint. This imaginary line needs to lay such tat the upper balljoint is layed back toward the rear of the vehicle. This is positive castor. Typically you want at least 2 or 3 degrees, most Jeeps are 5-7. The point is you need at least some positive castor to make it track correctly and handle properly. Just ask someone who got positive and negative mixed up, how it drove. (Not mentioning any names but it was an honest mistake and no it wasn't me) They will tell you how difficult it was just to try and stay in one lane while driving.

[Jeep07]

From my eyebaling it. It looks straight up and down through the ball joints. So i'm guessing 0 caster angle.

I drove it around tonight and she drove fine.

Also did good heat wise ;) now to pick a hot day and drive up some steep hills.

Thanks.

Wes

[pplblazerdude]

Glad to hear this man.

[Gordon]

:smokin:

[Jeep07]

OK I talked to bowmans today and He thinks it will take $700 to build a front drive shaft. :shock: Thats a dual double cardan with 9" of slip.

He is a nice guy and told me to try and scavage the parts to save some money. He even recommended keeping the sq and going with the CV's on each end which would save about $200.

Expensive hobbies ;)

[TiredIronGRB]

Try Fleetpride and I doubt you would need a dual DC shaft.

[BJack]

Keep the square front shaft. The clanking is aggravating but they are cheap and work good.

[pplblazerdude]

Keep the square front shaft. The clanking is aggravating but they are cheap and work good. I wouldnt pay 700 bucks for it. I would just keep what you got now.

[Hokie_YJ]

I got my rear shaft at Fleetpride. It's a Single CV shaft, cost me $280 tax and all. Talk to William Buck, he's a nice guy and he'll fix you up.

[Gubni]

You should bring it by my shop. We can probably make one of spare parts that I have and we can check the caster and yoke size also.

(I don't have 1350 parts, but plenty of 1310 and 1330)

[Gubni]

You might consider these.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88359

[Jeep07]

yup, they have a 1350. I will try one of these. If I could find one for the top it would be even better. Thanks for lettin me look at those cv joints shawn.

Wes

[Jeep07]

Ordered a 1350 and a 1310 superflex for my front dshaft today. Supposed to give 10 more degrees of angle. i'm hoping thats enough.

http://www.4xshaft.com/Super-Flex/SF131_135_141.jpg

[Jeep07]

OK I have installed my superflex joints. They have done the trick. ;)

Build Blog w/pics
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/Default.aspx
[/img]

[Gordon]

Tha't great Wes, glad it worked out.

[Jeep07]

Did some more tonight. Balljoints and U joints mostly.

Link to blog entryhttp://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/6/Default.aspx

[Jeep07]

OK I think i might put some limiting straps on the front of the X to assure that my pinion angle wont get to steep when i'm going up a steep hill. So my question is where is the best place on the axle to attach these straps? I don't want to kill my flex just want it about 1/4"-1/2" shorter than the full flex. this way I kinda guarantee my yokes dont bind.

(I've got some other mods planned for 07 that will greatly reduce my pinion angle and relieve the need for tons of driveshaft slip)

For now i need to limit my flex a little so i can enjoy the trail without driving off the trail in 2wd.

I'm gonna start figuring out my materials etc tommorow.

[Thumpszilla]

Looking good man Keep us posted. :wink:

[HotRodYJ]

So my question is where is the best place on the axle to attach these straps?

Shock mounts

[zukinut]

700 for a driveshaft, i spent 70 bucks on 2 10' sticks (inner and outer) 1/4 wall triangulated pto shaft and made 3 driveshafts. And where its designed to be a driveshaft (square tube is not) it doesnt squeak or rattle or anything.

You can pick the pto shaft up at tractor supply or any other farm equipment store.

HTH.

[Jeep07]

OK did some mockup on my hydro assist. I'm thinking I will just attach the ram to the axle and then to the bottom hookup on the knuckle where the tie rod attaches seems like the ram will be pretty straight hat way and it won't interfear with the axle etc.

Link to the progress on my blog.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/9/Default.aspx

If anybody has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Now just to figure out how to Tapp the box. ;)

[pplblazerdude]

I wouldnt do it like that. I would be worried that it would put way to much stress on that bolt for one and also put alot of stress on that knuckle. I mean you may never break it but still I dont think I would go that route. Also thats a good distance to go with hydro lines. How the way I see most people do it.

Im going to provide a few links to some other ideas that I think will work better.
http://www.trail-gear.com/hydro-steering-inst.html

Im like this method the best. This also shouldnt be to hard on your rig. Im not sure what crane covers are made of so you may not be able to weld to them not sure But I like this idea most of all. If this doesnt help any I will try to explain myself better.

[1-tonmudder]

Here is what I think I am going to use.Might not work with your Crane cover.

http://diy4x.com/images/rammount.JPG

[pplblazerdude]

Here is what I think I am going to use.Might not work with your Crane cover.

http://diy4x.com/images/rammount.JPG He makes real good stuff. I like that idea also. I didnt think about that but im 99% sure that it will not work on a crane cover.

[Jeep07]

I just hate to weld the diff cover. Does putting stress on it affect the seal? I was just thinking that all the pushing back and forth might affect it. (maybe not though)

[HotRodYJ]

I just hate to weld the diff cover. Does putting stress on it affect the seal? I was just thinking that all the pushing back and forth might affect it. (maybe not though)

I think the same way. I'd rather weld a mount to the axle tube, or use a bolt on like Steve has shown. For the other end, most people so attach it to the drag link instead of to the nuckle, BUT think of it this way, the bolt at the knuckle will still see the same amout of stress. The exta power is just tranmitted thru the tie rod instead with the typical mount. If I ever do mine, I'll attach to the tie rod and make a mount off the axle tube for the other end.

Is that a Surplus Center cylinder? Does it look pretty good?

[Jeep07]

Yup it is from surplus center.. It looks great to me. Seemed to be nice quality but I dont have alot to base that on. ;)

I though the same thing about the pin seeing the same force and when you see a ram setup on a buggy its pushing against the knuckles directly. I'll continue to contemplate the decision while I try to find steering box stuff. Now I've just gotta find nissan stearing gear rebuilt instructions and a kit.

Thanks

[Jeep07]

Myself and TNRanger will be working on the Xterra Hydro assist tonight if anybody wants to stop by. I live in Mt Carmel in the 1st subdv on your right on hammond Ave. House in the bottom culdesac with a white nissan PU in the bottom driveway.

<--- EDIT


l8r.

[Jeep07]

OK The box is tapped and reinstalled... Tommorow the cyclinder gets installed.. I hate to say it but the only place I can attach it is to the front diff cover :(... Oh well atleast its super thick...This way the push/pull is distributed between the 2 bolts evenly.

Pics of progress on my blog.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/11/Default.aspx

L8r..

[Want2Wheel]

Why not make a bracket that will go around the cover to hold it? Something like a bridge.

[Jeep07]

The Diff cover is a big thick crane cover and there isn't a flat surface where the bolts are. I would do that if it was an option but I just dont think it will work.

[Hokie_YJ]

Looks good Wes.

[Jeep07]

I could use a little help on the X tonight if anybody has nothing to do. I need to fab the mounts for the ram and install it plus bleed the brakes and the steering system plus regrease the front hubs.

360 6622 if you can come to Mt Carmel this evening.

Thanks

[Hokie_YJ]

How late will you be working? I'm going to eat, and I don't know when I'll be back.

[Jeep07]

still working. be here all night with the way things are going.. darn 3/4 drll bit went dull on me :(

gonna go buy another i guess. cooking dinner right now.

[Hokie_YJ]

Wes, sorry I ddn't make it by. I went to eat with the family, and I just got home about 20 minutes ago. Are you gonna be working on it tomorrow, I may be able to swing by. I've gotta work some more on my darn motor mounts. :x But if you need a hand I'll make it a point to swing by.

[Jeep07]

Dont worry about it.. TNRanger stopped by and helped. Then he fail asleep in the X. haha. James works hard so he needed a break. I got all the mounts fabbed and welded up. The ram is installed and I just got done bleeding the system.. I still haven't bled my breaks, atleast not to my liking but I'm hoping tommorow morning that will be done. Pics of the Hydro assist completed will be posted tommorow. (I left my CF card reader at work.)

L8r.

[Hokie_YJ]

Can't wait to see it in action!

[Gubni]

If you don't like the diff cover ideal here's another bridge.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/215212/fullsize/dsc01279.jpg

[Jeep07]

The Hydro is done and was used on bumpas cove today.

Link to the blog entry with pics of it mounted.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/12/Default.aspx

If your thinking of Hydro then Do It.. awesome mod and not really that hard.

[Hokie_YJ]

That's awesome Wes! I've soooo got to do that sometime soon.

[EngineNine]

Any reason why you didn't end for end the ram and go off the passenger side axle tube?

[Jeep07]

Good question. I tried the ram in about every position possible and i think i remember being worried about the ram actually hitting the diff cover if i was at full extension while turning to the drivers side knuckle. Atleast the crane diff cover gave me a good solid location to weld to.

[EngineNine]

That diff cover does look beefy. I bet it would mash your toe if you dropped it!!

[Jeep07]

Welp time for an update. I took the leafs out tonight and started getting ready for my link setup.

So now its time to think before I weld.

Check here for my ideas.
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/19/Default.aspx

I'm pretty much thinking radius arm-y link(i don't know if thats what its called but thats what I will call it until I'm corrected) or 3link setup. I have 2 pics of the y radius arms real quick in photoshop.

If anybody has any ideas on link setups let me know.

[HotRodYJ]

I like the Y-links for a front suspension. What are you planning to use for heims? I'm thinking some beefy 1x1.25 heims for the frame end of the links, then 3/4 x 3/4 or 3/4 x 5/8 everywhere else. Ansd use some beefy material for the arm itself.

You actually can fit a triangulated 4 link in front by using parrallel upper links and reverse triangulated lowers. But I think a trac bar and Y links are the best bet for a front suspension. My opinion.

So why are you taking the leafs out? You mention a crack on the front crossmember. Is that just a design flaw or are you chnaging becuase of that? Just remember how much more stress will be on the two radius arm mounts when you link it compared to the leaf mounts. I'm thinking ultra-beefy is necessary here.

[Jeep07]

Lets See. I bought hiems from poison spyder customs that are 3/4-5/8 to use upper and lower. The tubbing is 1.25ID DOM .25 Wall that I got from shawn. I thought about a Johnny joint up top but haven't decided yet. Still trying to do the brain work. ;)

TNRanger did this one, which is similar to what I'm thinking.
http://home.naxs.com/dogman/isenberg/frontend2.jpg

http://home.naxs.com/dogman/saycheese.jpg

[Jeep07]

So why are you taking the leafs out? You mention a crack on the front crossmember. Is that just a design flaw or are you chnaging becuase of that? Just remember how much more stress will be on the two radius arm mounts when you link it compared to the leaf mounts. I'm thinking ultra-beefy is necessary here.

The last time at harlan the entire front right side of the crossmember bent after a weld broke in the rock garden. So the lift on the passenger side of the truck is gone because the leaf can collapse up against the frame. So I was gonna have to cut it all out and start over so I figured I would link instead of sticking with the leafs. Also moving the axle forward a little which will help pinion angle and I wont have the problem with the driveshaft needing to have so much slip due to the reverse shackles.

Video that has the weld breaking on me in the rock garden.

4x4Grace06MGWeb.wmv

[Dino1967]

thats gonna be kool cant wait to see it finished
the more you all build the more ideas i get so everyone keep the builds coming :wink:

[Bluegill]

thats gonna be kool cant wait to see it finished
the more you all build the more ideas i get so everyone keep the builds coming :wink:

x2 :wink:

[Jeep07]

I cut the shock mounts off and started to prep for the links.

Tonight I got started by taking some 6"x3/8" plate and cutting it into 2.5"x6" pieces on my 4x6 bandsaw. I then took the plates and tacked them together and drilled 2 holes 1"Sq from the corners diagonal to each other. I only had a 1/2" drill bit so I have to buy a 5/8" bit tommorow so I can finish the holes for my hiem joints.


Next I decided to cut the leaf perches and shock brakets off the D60. This isn't as easy as it would seem. My plasma cutter is broken right now so I used the torch. After cutting the stuff I started grinding the stuff I couldn't cut off with the torch, which is horribly slow.


Pics on my blog...
http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/21/Default.aspx

[Dino1967]

nice progress :wink:

[Thumpszilla]

Keep it up man!

[Gubni]

On your upper frame mounts I like the ideal of a johnny joint. If you hit something hard the ther is no shock absorbing material and you are more likely to break something. With a johnny joint you have the poly bushing which can absorb some of the impact. I have nothing to base this on, just seems like a better choice to me.

[Gordon]

Lookin' good, Wes.

[Jeep07]

Today I worked a little. I got the tabs finished and tacked into place on one side. I also got the axle cleaned. I then took a broom stick and attached it to the hiem joint and layed it across the axle. Length looks to be about 52"-53" but I haven't got the front axle centered and lined up just where I want it.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/23/Default.aspx

I'm not sure about the angles etc but it looks fine to me. Any suggestions appreciated.

[BillM]

Nice job Wes

[Gubni]

Get an angle finder at Lowes. You need at least 3* of back caster (pinion pointed down) to make it drivable on the road. You need to measure it at the knuckles.

[Jeep07]

Get an angle finder at Lowes. You need at least 3* of back caster (pinion pointed down) to make it drivable on the road. You need to measure it at the knuckles.

Yup I plan on doing that, with the other setup I had pretty much 0* of caster which made it a little odd on the road.

The good thing about a y-link is i can adjust the caster with the upper link length. And the pinion angle should say consistent as the axle goes and up down unlike the reverse shackle setup.

thanks

[Jeep07]

More progress.

Tacked in rear brackets., once im confortable I will weld them in then box the back for strength.

Started thinking of design for front brackets but i think i'm just gonna buy some. TNRanger pointed me to these

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/newflatbottom1.JPG

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/flatbottomlinksa.jpg

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/24/Default.aspx

[Bluegill]

Those look nice Wes!

[BillM]

Wes, are those bracket designs yours, or pre made? If they are pre maid can you send me a link to them?

Thanks buddy.

[Jeep07]

http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstores.com/Link-brackets_c_24-1.html

they have tons of good stuff. gonna make my job alot easer. I'm also thinking about the drag link bracket etc. I've got to do some mockup tonight to make sure I can clear the links when i turn before I proceed.

[BillM]

That is some sweet stuff. Thank you Wes

[HotRodYJ]

Good looking stuff and the prices look pretty good also. Nice find.

[Hokie_YJ]

I bought my rod ends and tube adapters for my traction bar from Ballistic Fab. They do have nice stuff, and good prices.

[Jeep07]

Redid upper link mounts in the crossmember.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/25/Default.aspx

This will allow me to actually install the links without rubbing the tires when i turn. That might be handy on the trail :wink:

[Jeep07]

I made some progress. I have more pics on my camera phone from tonight. This is what I got done sunday.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/28/Default.aspx

I have to finish the Y's, get my spacers for the hiem joints ready, do some brake line work, Track bar + Brackets and shock mounts.

[NC_James]

Looking good!

[TiredIronGRB]

Much, much better :wink:

[HotRodYJ]

Looks good, I like those brackets. Makes life alot easier I'm sure than spending hours cutting and grinding to make them yourself. I like the adjustable coil bucket.

[Gubni]

Wow that awesome.

[Hokie_YJ]

Looking great Wes! :smokin: I can't wait to see it on the trail again, it's gonna perform so much better now. You're becoming quite the "Maestro" with a welding torch! :lol:

[Dino1967]

:smokin: :smokin: nice

[Jeep07]

I did some more work today. The X is holding its own weight tonight. I still have to build the track bar + Mounts and install my new chevy master cylinder and rerun the front lines + figure out some shock tabs.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/29/Default.aspx

[Derrickalda]

bring it to Moab

[Bluegill]

Looking good Wes!

[pplblazerdude]

Are those springs a high anuff spring rate? I was just wondering cause it looks like you do not have much room for compression in the top on the springs. I know they are progressive but I thought you would still have more room then that.

[Gordon]

Looking great, Wes.

[Dino1967]

the way things are going you need to open a shop :!:
great job

[BillM]

Way to go Wes. Doing a heck of a job.

[Jeep07]

Are those springs a high anuff spring rate? I was just wondering cause it looks like you do not have much room for compression in the top on the springs. I know they are progressive but I thought you would still have more room then that.

they are close. they are 5.5" EB springs abd for an EB the compressed height is supposed to be 18.25" and these are at 18" even. so pretty close.

bring it to moab

I plan on it. my sister is moving to colorado springs so I will have 2 siblings to visit out there.

[pplblazerdude]

Are those springs a high anuff spring rate? I was just wondering cause it looks like you do not have much room for compression in the top on the springs. I know they are progressive but I thought you would still have more room then that.

they are close. they are 5.5" EB springs abd for an EB the compressed height is supposed to be 18.25" and these are at 18" even. so pretty close.

bring it to moab

I plan on it. my sister is moving to colorado springs so I will have 2 siblings to visit out there. Nice. I was just checking in.

[Jeep07]

ok the 3 link is done. I just have some brake work todo. Gonna try and get the fittings tommorow and finish up tommorow night.


pics if you want to see.

http://www.wesleycombs.com/blog/tabid/53/EntryID/31/Default.aspx

[BillM]

Looking good Wes.

[Jazzman31]

Looks great, maybe one day you can wheel it instead of working on it. Then you can work on the Rubi. LOL

[HotRodYJ]

Looking good. A grinder will clean up those torched edges :lol:

[Rtaylor]

Looks like you are making some great progress. I can't wait to see this thing on the trails. I do have a question about the shock mounts that I'm not sure that I saw correctly in the photos. Are the upper shock mounts simply welded 90 degrees to the shock hoop without any triangulation? If so, won't that be a weak link? Those things absorb a tremendous amount of abuse when wheeling.

Robert

[Jeep07]

They are a little more that 90*, but yes right now I have no gussets installed. I thought about adding some gussets (your the 2nd to mention it).

I was curious about how much abuse they will take since the shock will give before the mount. Unless the shift between extension to compression and vise versa, lets the pressure build up. (I dont have any experience in this area)

Before I had little flimsy shock tabs mounted the same way. (Not as long) but they where 1/2 as thick. I hope to test a little this week before I do anymore work.

Thanks for the suggestions and compliments, This has been a eye opening project.

Hotrod I agree I should clean them up I was just tired of listening to the grinder.

[Thumpszilla]

Looking Great man!!

[Mountainman]

Just observing: Will the shocks be the limiting factor in your up travel?

Can't wait to see it in action again.

[Jeep07]

Thats what I have to test. I can build some longer bump stops that go inside the spring but I need to flex it out a little to know for sure. I hope to hit the RTI ramp at georges sometime soon and start looking to see what i have to change.

Your jeep is no joke on the trail. Got any pics posted up anywhere?

[Mountainman]

Unfortunately I don't, I need to use a camera more. Give me a shout whenever you go to test it out.

[Mountainman]

There are a few pictures of my Jeep here:


http://www.4x4grace.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=156&page=1

[Jeep07]

http://lh5.google.com/image/lucentglow/Reod0O9KlkI/AAAAAAAAAm4/JKEaMPGaTMg/s288/P1010010.JPG

[HotRodYJ]

http://lh5.google.com/image/lucentglow/Reod0O9KlkI/AAAAAAAAAm4/JKEaMPGaTMg/s288/P1010010.JPG

Did I miss something?

[Jeep07]

Check the avatar ;)


Plans have changed.

New pics next week I think.

[Gordon]

WWWWWhhhhhaaaaatttttsssss UP????? :shock:

[Jeep07]

new DD. (in the pic) mildly building the rubi for some trail riding.

I came to a realization that there should be a balance between wrenching and wheeling and I spent way to much time wrenching (learned tons though, so well worth it). I also realized that rock crawling the hardest things on the trail didn't appeal to me. I wanted to scale back some and have a rig that is geared towards trail riding (95% of what we do anyway) and not boulder crawling. The Rubi is the perfect base for that.

So the X is in CO now where it can crawl on boulders.

I'm thinking the Rubi will look a little different in a week or two so i will be itching for a bays run or something.

I must say I really like my new DD though.

[Monstero]

Traded the X for a AMG...hmmmm :-k

[Gordon]

Wes, I think that's great! I guess I'm prejudice, 'cause that's right where I'm at, too. Although I haven't put near the work in mine as you did the X, learning & doing is actually a lot of fun & rewarding.

Tell us a bit about the AMG.

[Jeep07]

1998 C43 AMG.
115k with regular maintenance.
306HP
0-60 in 5.8
1/4 mile in 14.4

Plus its got 4 doors and can seat up to 5 which is great for work since I always have to ask one of the other guys to drive if more than 2 are going some where.

Pretty much loaded up inside.

The lord has blessed me on the deal.

I was kinda hoping to trade for a buggy but then this deal came along and made perfect sense. I really didn't want to get rid of the jeep and buy a tow rig + trailer and this helped accomplish that.

[Gubni]

Get a 6" long arm kit and you'll go anywhere you want.

[TiredIronGRB]

Good move Wes, it's much better to ride than to wrench all the time.

"wrench a little, ride alot"

[Bluegill]

Good move Wes, it's much better to ride than to wrench all the time.

"wrench a little, ride alot"

x2 :!:

Besides, you already had a rig that makes even highly modified TJ owners drool :wink:

[Hokie_YJ]

Sheesh the thing you miss when you leave town for the weekend. :lol:

Seriously though Wes I think you made a wise decision. I liked the X a lot, but like you said it's no fun if it's all work and no play.

[Plastic]

I want a ride in the AMG, those things are beasts!