TN Tracker
01-08-2006, 07:57 PM
SOA The Cheap and Easy Way
We?ve had a lot of people ask?
?How can you do an SOA for $75. All of the kits I find are $400 or more.?
First of all you must have a welder, or access to a welder and know how to use it or be able to persuade a friend who does know how to use it into helping you on your conversion. Many people will argue you cannot do a safe SOA conversion for $75. The $75 conversions as illustrated here is just as safe as any other SOA kit you can buy. As with any modification you make to your Jeep, the safety of the modification has as much to do with the ability of the person making the modifications as anything. If you are confident, competent, and fully understand what you are doing, you wont have any problems. Before beginning to disassemble or cut anything, you must first take some measurements. I recommend relocation of the shock mounts to get them above the bottom of the axle tubes. This helps tremendously with ground clearance. No more hanging the lower shock mounts on rocks or logs. This also allows use of stock length shocks, which of course lowers the cost of the overall conversion. On my second SOA conversion, the YJ had 3? longer than stock shocks already installed. The owner wanted the additional clearance so we made a compromise by relocating the lower shock mounts out of harms way, but not as high as we would when using stock length shocks. While this YJ still flex?s an incredible amount. It seems using stock length shocks actually performs a little better by allowing more articulation before bottoming out of the shock. Back to the measurements. You need to measure and record the length of the front and rear shocks while the Jeep is at rest with weight on the wheels. This measurement will be duplicated when reinstalling the lower shock mount on the axle. It is also a good idea to note the front pinion angle at this time so it may be duplicated during reassembly and fitment of new spring saddles.
As with any weld on type SOA, you need to remove the front and rear axles and using a grinder to remove the spring saddles, shock mounts and track bar mount from the rear axle. Also remove the shock mounts from the front axle. The spring saddles and track bar mount on the front axle are cast pieces and are not easily removed. When removing all of these components, you should use great care to not damage the shock mounts any more than necessary. The better job you do removing the mounts, the easier they will be to reinstall later. You could even spring for some brand new lower shock mounts if you choose to do so. There are many expansive and non-expensive spring saddles on the market. I chose to use spring saddles intended for trailer axles. These are $2.99 each and were purchased at the local Northern Tool store. Although not as nice as the stamped units sold for street rod building etc. these do work well and I have never had problems with using them. Relocate the rear axle under the spring using the original hardware if it is still in good condition. Do not reuse U-bolts if they are damaged in anyway. U-bolts are relatively inexpensive and easily replaced at this point. Bolt everything in place snugly but loose enough so you can set the pinion angle with a floor jack. Be sure axle is centered between the springs by taking measurements between the outside of the spring and the backing plate. When these measurements are the same on each side, the axle assembly is centered on the springs. When everything is properly aligned, you may tack the new spring saddles in place. Fit the lower shock mounts using the shock length dimensions taken earlier and tack the mounts in place. It is common practice to do away with the rear track bar so re-fitment on the track bar mount is not needed. If you chose to retain the track bar, fit accordingly and tack weld to the axle tube at this time. Now you can remove the rear axle and finish weld all brackets. Clean, paint and reinstall rear axle.
For the front axle, follow the same steps. By switching sides with the U-bolt plates, the sway bar end-link studs/mounts can be kept to the front, outer corner so the sway bar will still work without the need for extended end-links. Be sure axle is centered between springs and set pinion angle, tack in place. The pinion angle on the front axle is even more critical than the rear pinion angle. The front pinion angle actually changes the caster for the front wheel alignment. 7 degrees is a common. You may also choose to duplicate your original measurement but it is most likely very near 7 degrees. Fit the shocks using original measurements and tack in place. Remove axle, finish weld, clean, paint and reinstall. Sway bar may be reconnected if you choose to use it.
The front track bar is a little more complicated. The easy way to tackle this is either not run a front track bar or buy a new $199 adjustable bar. I chose to cut off and relocate the upper track bar mount. First cut it loose from the frame and refit using original track bar, the re-weld. This actually works very well. It is not the perfect set-up by any means in that the track bar and drag link will not be perfectly parallel, so you will get some slight bump steer, but most bump steer is still alleviated. Brake lines need to be relocated to below the frame rails. Many argue extended brake lines MUST be used during SOA. I agree extended brake lines would be the very best way to go. In the interest of low cost, Relocation of the brake lines does allow ample movement. When performing this modification, be certain brake hoses are not over extended during maximum flex. Mine work just fine and are not in an unsafe over extended condition during full flex. Park Brake cables will need to be rerouted. Passenger side cable can be successfully rerouted and work just fine. Drivers? side cables are commonly too short and should be replaced with longer cables. I believe XJ drivers side cables are longer and will work, although I have not made this change as of yet. The YJ cables will work for a while before breaking. For steering modifications, a Dropped Pitman Arm (DPA) can be obtained from anywhere for $59. Although a high steer steering set-up would be highly desirable, it is also very expensive. I have found the DPA steering set-up works very well, although bump steer does take some getting used too. Once you?ve adapted, you don?t really notice it. An adjustable track bar could be used to alleviate most of the bump steer, If you choose. Front driveshaft will still fit, although it will be at the end of its extension. I have not fond this to be an issue over the past year of wheeling. I have never had any issues with the front driveshaft. As with any lift over 4? SYE and CV conversions should be included. Because these conversions are necessary for any lift over 4?, I did not include this as part of the SOA cost. This additional cost would be the same even with lift springs.
In summary, the cost boils down to a DPA for $59 and four new spring saddles for $2.99 each. Less than $75 total.
Findings, Thoughts, and Learning?s
After performing this SOA on two YJ?s and wheeling in it for over a year now I have a few observations and opinions that could prove to be useful. Stock YJ springs are very soft, therefore at least at first, I highly recommend retaining both front track bar and sway bar until the driver feels comfortable in not having them. They are easily removed or reinstalled at any point. It seems that with the very soft factory springs, these items are almost mandatory. With both of the YJ?s conversions I have experienced, I also installed add-a-leafs? (AAL?s) for on the front. Both Jeeps sat approx. 2 to 2 1/2? lower in the front than in the rear. The AAL?s proved very useful in leveling both Jeeps. The first YJ had the added weight of a V8 weighing down the front, while the second YJ appears to have some sort of non-stock leaf pack at the rear only. This doesn?t make much since until you learn that the springs where acquired second hand and installed at the time of the SOA. We really don?t know the history of exactly what these springs are. They where supposed to be a full set of factory YJ springs. It seems otherwise. Once the AAL?s where installed this also gave a slightly increased spring rate. Both Jeep?s where virtually undriveable on rough roads with factory springs and no sway bar or front track bar. Both Jeeps are now driven daily without sway bar or track bar. The key seems to be spring selection. With a slightly stiffer spring or aftermarket spring, YJ?s are just fine without these devices. Both Jeeps drove just fin with sway bars and track bars attached on stock unmodified spring packs.
This is the first SOA I did this way. This YJ is on stock springs with AAL?s in front, DPA and 3?BL on 35? Claws. All other suspension components, brake lines, etc. are totally stock, just rearranged a little bit.
The images will be reposted when/if they can be found.
This is for informational purposes only. If you decide to modify your rig then you take responsibility for doing the job correctly. If you don't understand the procedure then hire a professional. 4x4Grace and it's Supporters cannot be held responsible for your actions.
We?ve had a lot of people ask?
?How can you do an SOA for $75. All of the kits I find are $400 or more.?
First of all you must have a welder, or access to a welder and know how to use it or be able to persuade a friend who does know how to use it into helping you on your conversion. Many people will argue you cannot do a safe SOA conversion for $75. The $75 conversions as illustrated here is just as safe as any other SOA kit you can buy. As with any modification you make to your Jeep, the safety of the modification has as much to do with the ability of the person making the modifications as anything. If you are confident, competent, and fully understand what you are doing, you wont have any problems. Before beginning to disassemble or cut anything, you must first take some measurements. I recommend relocation of the shock mounts to get them above the bottom of the axle tubes. This helps tremendously with ground clearance. No more hanging the lower shock mounts on rocks or logs. This also allows use of stock length shocks, which of course lowers the cost of the overall conversion. On my second SOA conversion, the YJ had 3? longer than stock shocks already installed. The owner wanted the additional clearance so we made a compromise by relocating the lower shock mounts out of harms way, but not as high as we would when using stock length shocks. While this YJ still flex?s an incredible amount. It seems using stock length shocks actually performs a little better by allowing more articulation before bottoming out of the shock. Back to the measurements. You need to measure and record the length of the front and rear shocks while the Jeep is at rest with weight on the wheels. This measurement will be duplicated when reinstalling the lower shock mount on the axle. It is also a good idea to note the front pinion angle at this time so it may be duplicated during reassembly and fitment of new spring saddles.
As with any weld on type SOA, you need to remove the front and rear axles and using a grinder to remove the spring saddles, shock mounts and track bar mount from the rear axle. Also remove the shock mounts from the front axle. The spring saddles and track bar mount on the front axle are cast pieces and are not easily removed. When removing all of these components, you should use great care to not damage the shock mounts any more than necessary. The better job you do removing the mounts, the easier they will be to reinstall later. You could even spring for some brand new lower shock mounts if you choose to do so. There are many expansive and non-expensive spring saddles on the market. I chose to use spring saddles intended for trailer axles. These are $2.99 each and were purchased at the local Northern Tool store. Although not as nice as the stamped units sold for street rod building etc. these do work well and I have never had problems with using them. Relocate the rear axle under the spring using the original hardware if it is still in good condition. Do not reuse U-bolts if they are damaged in anyway. U-bolts are relatively inexpensive and easily replaced at this point. Bolt everything in place snugly but loose enough so you can set the pinion angle with a floor jack. Be sure axle is centered between the springs by taking measurements between the outside of the spring and the backing plate. When these measurements are the same on each side, the axle assembly is centered on the springs. When everything is properly aligned, you may tack the new spring saddles in place. Fit the lower shock mounts using the shock length dimensions taken earlier and tack the mounts in place. It is common practice to do away with the rear track bar so re-fitment on the track bar mount is not needed. If you chose to retain the track bar, fit accordingly and tack weld to the axle tube at this time. Now you can remove the rear axle and finish weld all brackets. Clean, paint and reinstall rear axle.
For the front axle, follow the same steps. By switching sides with the U-bolt plates, the sway bar end-link studs/mounts can be kept to the front, outer corner so the sway bar will still work without the need for extended end-links. Be sure axle is centered between springs and set pinion angle, tack in place. The pinion angle on the front axle is even more critical than the rear pinion angle. The front pinion angle actually changes the caster for the front wheel alignment. 7 degrees is a common. You may also choose to duplicate your original measurement but it is most likely very near 7 degrees. Fit the shocks using original measurements and tack in place. Remove axle, finish weld, clean, paint and reinstall. Sway bar may be reconnected if you choose to use it.
The front track bar is a little more complicated. The easy way to tackle this is either not run a front track bar or buy a new $199 adjustable bar. I chose to cut off and relocate the upper track bar mount. First cut it loose from the frame and refit using original track bar, the re-weld. This actually works very well. It is not the perfect set-up by any means in that the track bar and drag link will not be perfectly parallel, so you will get some slight bump steer, but most bump steer is still alleviated. Brake lines need to be relocated to below the frame rails. Many argue extended brake lines MUST be used during SOA. I agree extended brake lines would be the very best way to go. In the interest of low cost, Relocation of the brake lines does allow ample movement. When performing this modification, be certain brake hoses are not over extended during maximum flex. Mine work just fine and are not in an unsafe over extended condition during full flex. Park Brake cables will need to be rerouted. Passenger side cable can be successfully rerouted and work just fine. Drivers? side cables are commonly too short and should be replaced with longer cables. I believe XJ drivers side cables are longer and will work, although I have not made this change as of yet. The YJ cables will work for a while before breaking. For steering modifications, a Dropped Pitman Arm (DPA) can be obtained from anywhere for $59. Although a high steer steering set-up would be highly desirable, it is also very expensive. I have found the DPA steering set-up works very well, although bump steer does take some getting used too. Once you?ve adapted, you don?t really notice it. An adjustable track bar could be used to alleviate most of the bump steer, If you choose. Front driveshaft will still fit, although it will be at the end of its extension. I have not fond this to be an issue over the past year of wheeling. I have never had any issues with the front driveshaft. As with any lift over 4? SYE and CV conversions should be included. Because these conversions are necessary for any lift over 4?, I did not include this as part of the SOA cost. This additional cost would be the same even with lift springs.
In summary, the cost boils down to a DPA for $59 and four new spring saddles for $2.99 each. Less than $75 total.
Findings, Thoughts, and Learning?s
After performing this SOA on two YJ?s and wheeling in it for over a year now I have a few observations and opinions that could prove to be useful. Stock YJ springs are very soft, therefore at least at first, I highly recommend retaining both front track bar and sway bar until the driver feels comfortable in not having them. They are easily removed or reinstalled at any point. It seems that with the very soft factory springs, these items are almost mandatory. With both of the YJ?s conversions I have experienced, I also installed add-a-leafs? (AAL?s) for on the front. Both Jeeps sat approx. 2 to 2 1/2? lower in the front than in the rear. The AAL?s proved very useful in leveling both Jeeps. The first YJ had the added weight of a V8 weighing down the front, while the second YJ appears to have some sort of non-stock leaf pack at the rear only. This doesn?t make much since until you learn that the springs where acquired second hand and installed at the time of the SOA. We really don?t know the history of exactly what these springs are. They where supposed to be a full set of factory YJ springs. It seems otherwise. Once the AAL?s where installed this also gave a slightly increased spring rate. Both Jeep?s where virtually undriveable on rough roads with factory springs and no sway bar or front track bar. Both Jeeps are now driven daily without sway bar or track bar. The key seems to be spring selection. With a slightly stiffer spring or aftermarket spring, YJ?s are just fine without these devices. Both Jeeps drove just fin with sway bars and track bars attached on stock unmodified spring packs.
This is the first SOA I did this way. This YJ is on stock springs with AAL?s in front, DPA and 3?BL on 35? Claws. All other suspension components, brake lines, etc. are totally stock, just rearranged a little bit.
The images will be reposted when/if they can be found.
This is for informational purposes only. If you decide to modify your rig then you take responsibility for doing the job correctly. If you don't understand the procedure then hire a professional. 4x4Grace and it's Supporters cannot be held responsible for your actions.