View Full Version : Gordon's 1989 XJ -
Gordon
08-04-2006, 05:44 PM
I have finally settled on a bit of a project. After looking at some ready to roll rigs, I decided that I want to wrench a bit myself, so.... my brother-in-law had this 1989 XJ as a d/d. He updated to a 1998, so I bought the '89 from him.
It's got a 1996 4.0 with an AW4 automatic. It's got a 30 & 35 with NP231 case.
My first step is to just drive it a bit to see if anything falls off. :grin:
I want to dig up a set of sneakers so that I can get it out on a trail or two, just to see how it does.
For now, the project goal is a lift & 33's plus the ancilliary stuff. I'll be tossing a few "wants" out on the list, I'm sure.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-04-06White1989XJ005.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-04-06White1989XJ003.jpg
Gordon
08-05-2006, 04:20 PM
Which ever lift I decide on (4" to 5" for 33's or 3" for 31's), I want to do it right. If I think I can get 32's under a 3", I may go there. I don't want to have to go nuts with a sawzall, either.
Even at stock setup, the XJ's inards (oil pan & x-fer case primarily), are much higher and more protected than poor old Bubba. Spending a bunch extra just to get 1" more lift on the hogsheads is not sensible, either.
I do not plan to go past the above stage (like adding say a 44 & 60, 36's etc) anywhere in the foreseeable future. I want to get comfortable at that level for awhile. Gotta at least get through George's rock garden. Plus, I am more a "rockie" than a "muddie"! (I don't really care for 1 hour trail/4 hours with the hose). I'm old enough that my body has told me "no planned flops, just for fun". :grin: in no uncertain terms. Bev has some influence there, too. :grin: :grin:
Gordon
08-18-2006, 10:25 PM
Update time.
I decided to go with a Rusty's 3" instead of the 4-1/2". While I was flipflopping that in my mind, I did a bunch of little stuff... ignition switch, battery hold down, aux electric fan, wiper motor, flushed the cooling system & new hoses, yada yada.....
I need to throw some pads and shoes on it, about 3/4 worn out front & rear. Hoses & lines look OK though. Might replace upper ball joints, not sure yet, though. They're just slightly loose.
I picked up frame tow hooks for the front and a class 3 receiver for the rear. Got those installed. Bev has gotten a laugh or two with me running back and forth to the junk yard.
The Rusty's stuff got here Wednesday. I had already pulled the shocks off.
Finished the front this afternoon. I haven't moved it, but after bouncing it a few times, the measurements came in right at 3-1/2". Bev even graciously came out and rocked the steering wheel while I repinned the trac bar.
I left the front sway bar bolted to the frame, but it is not connected.
I will at least get it up on rear jack stands tomorrow. (It looks real dorky with the rear so low now). I probably won't get active on the rear axle until next week.
Then......... sneakers..... Haven't made up my mind on them yet.
Something else I want to think about is that the alternator is positioned so low, it can get wet real easy. I may try to move it up where the A/C compressor is. Although the A/C works, if I move this setup, I'll probably can the A/C and change it over to OBA. The A/C is an old R12 system anyway.
Well, that's it for this instalment. We'll see what happens in the next couple weeks.
Gordon
08-19-2006, 10:12 AM
I actually may have a few cans of Freeze12 floating around the garage. although the A/C is working fine now. I would only consider disconnecting the A/C if I can't relocate stuff for trying to get that alternator up higher. Anyone out there address that poor alternator location before?
I personally don't see a big requirement for me to have OBA. My style is Mr. Conservative, anyway. :grin: It would just be a left handed by-product of the alternator issue.
I haven't taken any pics of the front completed, but here's a couple with the new springs in place, just before I reattached the upper control arms. Have not ordered the sway bar disco's yet, either. That and the possibly the steering box brace will be next steering/suspension stuff.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-17-06White1989XJ001.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-17-06White1989XJ004.jpg
Gordon
08-22-2006, 06:14 PM
Dabbled a bit yesterday and today. Disassembled the rear yesterday, including brakes. Wheel cylinders were seeping and a couple steel lines looked poor. I've got a couple wheel studs to replace.
I picked up a longer rear brake hose since I broke into the system anyway. Not going to use the extenda-bracket from Rusty's.
Discarded the rear sway bar altogether. It's not going back on.
Inserted the AAL from Rusty's. Did initial torque on spring "U" bolts, and will retorque when I install the spring straps and rear shocks, plus finish up the brakes.
That's all for this go round.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-22-06White1989XJ005.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-22-06White1989XJ006.jpg
Gordon
08-23-2006, 09:17 PM
Had another fair day at the glue factory. :grin: Talked Bev into helping bleed the brakes. Got 'er buttoned up. Haven't driven it yet, but after a bounce or two in the driveway, I have ended up at 3-1/2" to 3-3/4" at each corner. Makes those 225's look like crap.
I didn't really keep track, but I figure somewhere around 12 hours actual wrench time on the lift, plus a few more hours for the brakes. I must add that I am a slacker. I did not bust my butt against the clock. :roll:
I have got to get back to a real job. I am getting to used to doggin' it. :grin: :grin:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-23-06SideViewRightBeforeAfter.jpg
Gordon
08-29-2006, 06:58 PM
Picked up a set of Soft-8's with 31 X 10.50's (thanks, Ben). Took it for a short cruise around the neighborhood. No rubbing, but will have to see once on the trail. I have a few things to fix up before a shakedown, but getting close.
I'm going to wait for a few local runs before I purchase new meats.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z08-29-061989XJ010.jpg
Gordon
09-12-2006, 09:57 PM
Grabbed a OEM roof rack from the boneyard for $20.00 and the bumper for $50.00 being that I'm a cheapskate. :lol: Got the tie rod installed (which I did buy new, not boneyard).
I have to trim up the junk under/around the bumper, but will wait until I see what other body parts might get tire burn.
Basically, it's done for round one, except for drilling/burning two holes in the bumper for "D" shackles. I have to pick up a CB and do a little splash pan/skid plate work somewhere along the line. I'd really like a bit more of a roof rack, perhaps to carry my highlift, etc, so I'm on the lookout there.
Will be looking at a winch plate for the bumper, too. Got some ideas going there.
Now, to get it out there and see what it, AND ME, will accomplish.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z09-13-061989XJBumper002.jpg
Gordon
09-15-2006, 05:13 PM
Got the "D" shackles on this morning. 3/4" bolts and holes burnt with a plasma cutter.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z09-15-061989XJBumper001.jpg
I drove it around a bit today and no issues. Not much rock and roll with the sway bars off, either. Gonna try to at least engage the 4 wheel drive tomorrow somewhere. :grin:
Still have to x-fer gear, etc. But, she's basically done.
Gordon
01-13-2007, 07:05 PM
Figured it was time for a little follow-up.
The Rusty's 3" AAL had settled about 3/4" to 1" in the rear since I did the install and have wheeled some, plus loaded up some gear. The front has remained at about a 3-3/4 lift.
I went ahead and installed a 1-1/2" spacer block instead of adding a shackle set up. It puts me at about 4-1/4 to 4-1/2 now in the rear. The Rusty's spacer block comes with a taper, based upon what one's setup is. I ordered a block at 2*, since I hadn't shimmed before, and had not been having any pinion angle issues. Haven't driven it yet, since I just finished up this afternoon. I also picked up a 3* shim set in case I need to add more.
So, figured I'd pass this on for any 3" AAL users or candidates, something to keep in mind.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/zXJLift01-13-07003A.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/zXJLift01-13-07005.jpg
Gordon
03-08-2007, 10:32 PM
Spring is coming, buds are on the forsythia bushes, and Gordo's got inchitus.
Gonna boost it a bit more. No sense in buying 31's then turning right around and buying 33's, and I gotta get sneakers soon. Should have all the parts rounded up by tomorrow or Saturday. Nothing fancy - just spacers & LCA's that are 1" longer.
I'll wait on the t/c drop until I see how much it rattles my teeth. although I'm sure I'll be doing that. I already have some axle shims floating around. Am going to do some fenderwell trimming, too. Time to fire up the SawZall.
By the time I get done, and things settle in, I'll be at 5-1/2" to 6" of lift.
Gordon
03-09-2007, 07:18 AM
I did not have any d/s vibrations with the 3" Rusty's kit, but I suspect I might now, because of d/s angle. I am kinda piecing this together, as opposed to buying a kit, so when all the dust settles and I find out what I really end up adding, I'll post the completion.
Current tires are well worn 31 X 10.50's. Am going to 33 X 12.50's.
Since this is primarily trail use, I am not real fussy, but I do want it to drive reasonably on the highway, as I'll drive it, not trailer it, to Harlan and such.
Gordon
03-24-2007, 11:35 PM
Well, my plans have changed just a slight bit.
My schedule has been killing me, and I?m trying to get things done so I can do a shakedown, and still be ready for Harlan in mid April, so I enlisted the help of Teddy Henley (Ted?s Off Road here in Jonesborough) to do the front axle work for me. He installed the 2? spacers and the LCA?s, which are 1? longer than stock. Trimmed a little here and there, relocated the caliper brake lines, and readjusted the trac bar. Great job, Ted, many thanks for the professional work and quick turnaround. The longer LCA?s took care of my caster issue on the front axle, too. Drives/steers much better. :grin:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z03-24-072-InchSpacer.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z03-24-07XJLCAs.jpg
Today, I had a little time on my hands, so I made some shims (14gauge - .075 thick) and dropped the T/C. My initial drop is 5/8?. The rear axle is next week. I decided to go ahead with a 1-1/2? lift using 3? shackles (due in on Tuesday). This will let me remove the 1-1/2? blocks and use some block lift later after the spring packs get more fatigued. I?ll install shims to get my pinion angle after I remove the 1-1/2? blocks that are currently there. I had to pick up some new spring u-bolts, as the ones that came with the blocks are 3? and don?t fit the Dana 35 tightly enough to suit me. I can?t tell for sure until the work is done, but based on my calculations, the pinion should aim a just a bit below the T/C output.
I was concerned about getting the upper shackle bolts out without breaking loose the nut welded inside the uni-body rail. Soaking with PB Blaster, and working the bolts back and forth worked. I did it over a couple days, so as not to build up heat and snap the bolts, either. Nearly 20 years of exposure to whatever did make it a concern.
End result on the rear is that I?m hoping for a little more flex using an extended shackle and reducing potential axle wrap by minimizing the block style lift. Not that I?m the least bit hardcore :twisted: and have to worry about that stuff. When it?s done, I?ll be right at 5-1/2? lift and ready for 33?s without hacking the wheel wells to pieces.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z03-24-07XferCaseShims.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z03-24-07XferCaseDrop.jpg
Next installment ? next weekend.
Gordon
03-28-2007, 10:17 PM
Major work is all complete. I still have to complete some little odds & ends such as the new spring u-bolts and re-torquing, greasing, etc. prior to driving it, then wheel it once or twice, then make final height adjustments if need be, although I don't believe so. I also have to attend to the wheel well flare trimming after a run or two with new tires, which still need to be purchased.
Final specs -
Front - 3" Rusty's 180# coils plus 2" poly spacers & isolators yielded about a 5-3/4" lift. Rusty's adjustable trac bar, 1" longer fixed length DOM LCA's, shocks from the 3-1/2" Rusty's setup.
Rear - Rusty's full length AAL, Teraflex 3" shackles, 1-1/2" steel blocks (couldn't get rid of them) with 2* pinion adjustment - yield 6" lift, Rusty's 3-1/2" shocks.
T/C drop is at 5/8". Pinion points at 1" below the T/C seal. Gonna drive it before I make any more adjustments here. Don't think I'll need to.
All 4 shocks were from the first lift kit, so at 10" of travel, they're at about 6-3/4" on the travel range. May have to address that later with longer shocks.
Since I plan to stay with the open 30 & 35, 33 X 12.50's will be the max tire size. And, for anyone interested, especially some of the newer folks who are starting to build rigs, I haven't added it up exactly, but this rig, including the vehicle itself and the mods (excluding my tranny issue & the upcoming set of tires) will come in at under $2500.00
Part of my fun with this has been to do most all the work myself and bargain hunt for used stuff here and there. For the fairly conservative wheeler that I am, a rig like this will do just fine.
Enough of these mods - time to go to the trails. :grin:
Gordon
03-29-2007, 07:14 AM
Still have some "busy" work yet, though. And, I won't have tires 'til next week; haven't found what I'd like used, so I'm springing for new. I'm gonna stay with 33's because I have 3.55 open gears in the 30 & 35. For a suspension shakedown, the 31's will be fine.
Gordon
04-08-2007, 05:27 PM
Well, decided to go ahead and trim a little for 33's. Did not remove the flares and raise them, just carved away a bit. Still have to RTV caulk and touch up when the temp is warmer.
Before and After
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/04-08-07XJFlaresBefAft.jpg
Gordon
04-11-2007, 10:24 PM
Well, just might make it for Harlan. Picked up the used TrXus 33's Monday, Last night was the hayfield I call a lawn, :P and tonight was Jeep night.
Got the two bad wheel studs drilled out and replaced (one on each rear wheel), so I actually will be wheeling with 5 studs in each wheel finally :P :P , plus mounted the 33's. Too dark for pics when I got finished, but I believe it has turned out OK.
Tomorrow night should finish all the misc stuff as well as the final checkout. Will drive it to work in Bristol on Friday to get some miles on it and as long as nothing falls off :lol: :lol: , should be good to go by Saturday.
Gordon
04-12-2007, 09:52 PM
Well, the evolution of a Heep.
From the top, stock with the 225's..........
............to the bottom now, with 6" of lift & 33's
Now, it's time to stop fooling with it & just wheel it!
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/EvolutionofaJunk.jpg
Gordon
04-14-2007, 09:30 PM
Well, it passed the "Mr. Conservative's Harlan Checkout Test" today. I am pleased with the way it performed. Much better than the smaller, less complete lift - both on the highway & on the trail.
Gordon
04-15-2007, 10:34 AM
After we all went to the top, I stayed with Wes until we went to the Cafe. Went along 11 and came out at Fossil. Afterwards, it was just, main trails.
Since it was the first round on a trail after the recent work, I was watching for signs, good or bad. No popping or banging, and although not pushed much, it flexed well and I did not have tire rub. Shift points seem OK with the 3.55's to keep rpm's up when needed.
All in all, for my style wheeling, it's right where I want it to be. At least for this season. :wink:
And, for anyone else out there wondering what your very FIRST mod should be (we've talked this before) is TIRES. Worn down tires and/or street tires need to be replaced. No way I could have gotten up there for the group pic with the old tires, especially in all that slick mud. One time out and I believe I'm sold on TrXus M/T's. I could definitely feel the traction even in the slick slop.
Gordon
04-21-2007, 09:21 PM
Since the tires were used, I went ahead and had them rebalanced yesterday. There was the slightest vibe at about 45, which the balancing took care of.
Today I did the fluid side of the tranny temp gage install. I got a B & M gage kit from Summit. Located the inline sensor just before the fluid enters the radiator heat exchanger. Real easy install - no leaks either. Got to mount the gage somewhere and do the electrical next.
I still have the factory air box and it fits along side it just fine.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/zz04-21-07XJTransTemp001.jpg
Got the gage installed this afternoon. Just have to do the final electrical hookup and then test it.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/zz04-22-07XJTransTemp002.jpg
Gordon
04-29-2007, 04:09 PM
Close out on the tranny temp gage mod -
Worked just fine when I was up at No Business yesterday. Ran at about 160* while trans was working a bit and engine temp was up at 192*. Rolling down the highway it dropped to about 140*. (It's measuring the trans output temp.)
Gordon
07-27-2007, 11:48 PM
Latest mod -
New front bumper, designed & fabbed by Drake (Pitch) - aka Tangent Designs. Too late and dark for pics tonight, will add tomorrow. For those who have seen the pics of Hilla's, same setup, except black in color.
Drake put in a 1/4" plate for steering box reinforcement, so no need for a cross brace that I had never gotten anyway.
Absolutely superb work! :grin: Many thanks, Drake. :smokin:
Now, gotta get that winch. :twisted:
Add: a couple pics
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z07-28-07NewBumper1002A5X3.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z07-28-07NewBumper003.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z07-28-07NewBumper004.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z07-28-07NewBumper007.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/z07-28-07NewBumper009.jpg
Gordon
08-07-2007, 12:31 PM
Cleaned up all the fluff in this thread so that it is basically just the technical. Will report technical changes only.
Gordon
12-01-2007, 11:52 AM
Well, the nekid bumper needed to be dressed up. It now sports a Warn XD9000i.
All done, except I do need to do the initial wire rope spool and tensioning.
Drake, it fits the bumper perfectly!
RPM hooked me up real well - thanks Jeremy.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/zz12-01-07Winch001A.jpg
Gordon
06-26-2008, 10:11 AM
Well, found my injectors, and this may prove interesting for others who have the Renix system, and/or want to upgrade. There is info out in cyberspace for other applications, as well.
Fuel injector modification - complete. I replaced the old two-piece leaky Renix style with some one-piece Bosch injectors.
Renix one's have a flow rate about 18.5 #/hr and the Bosch are 19#/hr. Both styles are the higher ohm style, rated at about 16 ohms. The Bosch have a 4-hole nozzle, for better atomization, than the one-hole Renix, also. The ECU can handle a 2 to 3# difference, so no issue there.
I've only let it idle in the driveway, but it runs great so far. And, no leaks.
I also replaced the "O" rings at the reg inlet and rail return lines. The P/N of those - 83502745.
I was able to get a set of 8 good used injectors from a Mustang for $75.00 off of eBay, so I do have 2 spares, and the "O" ring kits are about $15.00 each, from Jeep. Those injectors new are about $60.00 each.
If anyone is interested in doing this mod, and has any more questions, just holler.
The injector on the left is the old Renix two-piece style. They tend to leak at the plastic/metal seam. The one on the right is a Bosch #0280-155-700 used in late model Fords and is commonly called the ?yellow ? design 3? style.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/01-16-08InjectorsZ.jpg
Final installation.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/01-26-08BoschInjectors004z.jpg
Gordon
06-26-2008, 10:13 AM
Picked up a fuel tank skid plate from Rusty?s. After beating a big dent in the tank over in George?s rock garden, almost ripping through the tank, I figured that I should add the plate.
Had a bit of cutting to do in order to fit along with the receiver hitch, but installation went pretty easy.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/03-01-08SkidPlate001z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/03-01-08SkidPlate003z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/03-01-08SkidPlate004z.jpg
Gordon
06-26-2008, 10:15 AM
Got a hold of a set of used XJ sliders, thanks to the RPM guys. Had to drill a few holes, but nothing major. Used thru-bolts instead of self tapping at the unibody rails, and also bolted at the pinch seam.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/05-01-08Sliders001z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/05-01-08Sliders002z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/05-02-08Sliders004z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/05-02-08Sliders003z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/05-02-08Sliders001z.jpg
Gordon
07-30-2008, 06:56 PM
Well, the package from the Brown Santa was a pair of 6-1/2" coils to replace the current coils/spacers combo.
Took it down to Tangent where Steve and I spent about 4 hours swapping out the front coils, and also installing a pair of Rough Country leaf packs that had been on Hilla's red XJ just prior to its last mod. Those leaf packs are a step up from the AAL which was my current set-up. Without the 1-1/2" blocks in the rear, I gained about 1" of lift and the front netted almost 2". I'm guessing the front will drop an inch or so when everything settles in.
The front went real easy. Removed shocks for access and used a spring compressor. Did not have to fool with the control arms or track bar.
The rears - different story. The shackle ends went fine, as I had them apart not long ago. And, the front on one side was fairly easy, but - the welded nut in the unibody decided to let go on the other side. Let's just say that Steve and I know exactly how to handle it next time. :icon_mrgreen:
I am really, really glad that I did not attempt this in my driveway!!!!
Props to Steve for a great job.
The drive home was fine - the T/C already has a drop - no issues there, and steering is fine, so no re-alignment needed.
Here's a pic- with weight on wheels. Maybe someday I'll address the bumpstop issue.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/07-31-08XJSprings002z.jpg
Gordon
07-31-2008, 04:29 AM
How much taller does it sit?????
1" in the rear - used spring packs (this is the Rough Country 6-1/2" set-up from Hilla's old red XJ)
2" in the front - new 6-1/2" Rusty's coils (are actually measuring at about 7-1/2" initially)
I found that on my other set of Rusty's coils, they sat a little taller than spec at the beginning, then dropped maybe 1/2". I ended up having the AAL's drop about 1/2", too. I've added quite a bit of gear (weight) in the back, so I may offload some of that, too.
I'm guessing these fronts will settle slightly after a few wheeling trips, too. I'll then take a look at maybe a slightly longer shackle, if I even bother to try to make up that slight difference - 1" difference front & rear, on that long of a wheelbase - probably not worth bothering with.
I need to run it up the RTI and see how it looks, as well as some flex shots on the trails. I know the front will be fine, but I'm hoping I don't lose any flex in the rear. The OEMs with AAL were soft and flexed pretty good.
Gordon
07-31-2008, 11:05 AM
The fix for the broken weld-nut inside the unibody -
The nut is actually located in a pocket, not completely inside the unibody rail.
Cut the bolt, using a SawZall, on the inside of the bushing, as close to the frame pocket as possible. Using an angle grinder, cut a little window in the bottom of the pocket, and pry open. Nut and end of bolt can be pulled out, plus, the window is used to install a new nut.
In my case, the bolt was also rusted to the bushing sleeve, so Steve just burnt the head of the bolt off. Might not have to do that if not rusted.
The pic showing the window is after re-installation.
Hope this saves someone some aggravation down the road.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/07-31-08XJSpringsBolt002Az.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/07-31-08XJSprings004Bz.jpg
Gordon
08-02-2008, 03:23 PM
Well, I couldn't stand it - seeing the thing sitting there, not level, was just plain bugging me - the Rough Country's settled in about another 1/2"
So -
A fresh start this morning -
Long story, short - pulled my old AAL spring packs apart for the individual leaves, then pulled apart the Rough Country's and added the bottom leaf from the old pack to the bottom of the RC, plus removed the angle shim - then added the 1-1/2" block with 2*
So, until I get some new leaves made up, I'll be running the blocks again. No real big deal for my wheeling style, but I was really hoping to get away from them.
It does now sit level, 2" higher at each corner than before I started messing with it. Plus, I've got to either get new shocks for the rear (I have already put 6" shocks in the front) or have Drake move the brackets just a bit. I am getting close to the travel limits of the old ones.
Ah, a man's work on his rig is NEVER complete.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/08-02-08XJSprings002z.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/08-03-08XJBlocks002Az.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/08-02-08XJSprings007Az.jpg
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/08-02-081989XJCombo.jpg
Gordon
08-09-2008, 03:21 PM
Completed the T.C drop today. It's at a full 1" now.
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g125/gme1951/1989%20XJ/08-09-08XJTCDrop001Az.jpg
Gordon
08-19-2008, 09:37 PM
Replaced the shocks in the rear with a proper length pair for the 6-1/2" lift.
At some point, I still may have Drake move my lower shock mounts, but for now, I didn't want the shorter ones to bottom out and limit flex too much.
I also measured my driveline angles and I think I'm good with the 1" T/C drop. I do not plan on SYE right now.
Need to give it some highway time to check for vibrations. Otherwise, time to wheel.
No replies - just adding technical.
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