Gear install-whos done it themselves?

[sergei2008]

I got a set of ring and pinions for the front and rear from a fellow after he upgraded to 5.13's. This is my daily driver so i opted for a 3.73 for the 25 miles each way on the interstate. The front came with the carrier and old bearings as well as ring/pinion still attached. The rear came with the ring and pinion. I know that I need an install kit for both and plan on putting either an ox locker in the rear or a detroit locker. I want something selectable for when i need it. Main question is how many of you on here have installed them yourselves with GREAT results. I know many dont like them and take them to the pros but I know alot of you have done them yourselves. So how difficult is the job, canthe tools required be found as rentals, and should someone do it themselves without having never done them. Now I have swapped my motor but that was fairly simple with no backlash calculations and such. Chime in with any info or advice. Ill listen to it all. Thanks. :eusa_think:

[99NCXJ]

I've helped with a few installs and I would urge you to find an established gear installer to do this for you. There are alot of variables that come into play when setting up gears and its not something I would do myself.

[highrolrcustoms]

ive set up my gears and beat them pretty hard but it never goes over 30 mph...on a highway driven vehicle i agree with justin....get a reputable gear installer...they should stand behind there work if somthing goes wrong

[HotRodYJ]

I've done quite a few myself in several different axle sizes and types., it's really not hard at all to do, BUT you need to study the job and understand all of variables very well before attempting it. You'll need a dial indicator, calipers or a mic, a good shop press and bearing pullers and of course a torque wrench. A pinion depth gauge is nice but not necessary. You really should also have the old needle style inch/lb torque wrench as well to set the pinion preload. The preload is set by the rotatiional force required to rotate the pinion usually in the ballpark of 8-12 inch/lbs of rotational force. Sometimes as high as maybe 25 inch/lbs depending on the axle specs.

When at all possible, you always want to start with the original master shim from the factory pinion located under the bottom bearing. 90% of the time if you start there, the pinion depth will be correct. Varified with marking compound and looking at the gear pattern.

It's not a hard job, just time consuming. But be warned, it takes ALOT of torque to get the crush sleeve to start to crush. You'll be shocked at how much effort that takes sometimes. I use a large pipe wrench on the pinion yoke to hold it still and a very powerful impact wrench to do the job but you have to be very very careful with this method. Most people use a power handle and several feet of pipe. Technically the impact wrench is bad on the bearings, but so far it has worked very well for me and simplified the process. Your standard impact wrench WILL NOT even come close to doing this job.

I suppose the most critical job I did was on my Durango. Had a bad pinion bearing so had to be rebuilt. Same ring and pinion but i did varify and fine tune the set-up when it went back together. One week after the rebuild, I hooked up my camper and towed to Florida on vacation. Never had any issues at all. Sold the Durango 30k miles later and still no issues at all.

[Jeep07]

We've done it. But only on drop out 3rd members so it just bench work and easy to make changes.

[sergei2008]

Looks like I may be better off getting someone else to do it if it really that much of a fine tuning deal. Does anyone have a suggestion for someone local to do it? Thanks everybody.

[Bluegill]

I'm with HotRod - if you have machining experience, then study the job, make sure you have all the right tools, and try it if you feel confident. I've done it on my D30 and 8.8. Like he said, I found out the hard way that a 500ft-lb impact wrench ain't got enough gumption to adequately crush the sleeve. The 8.8 wasn't bad thanks to the flange style yoke; I ran a bolt thru it backwards so it would catch on the pumpkin, strapped the axle to my welding table, and used a 4' pipe on my breaker bar. Went 1/8 turn at a time, then stopping to check the preload with the 1/4" drive in-lb torque wrench. Repeated until it was exactly to specs for new bearings. You also need to take into account the drag of a new oil seal. (i.e, 15in-lb for new bearing + 5in-lb for seal drag = 20 total)

Making notes as you go, especially the exact measurement of EVERYTHING in the diff when you take it apart - is crucial. Learning how to read the wear pattern of the marking compound is tricky too, best learned with practice. The only reason I felt somewhat confident doing my own gears - is the skills/experience I have, plus lots of research. Bought a vocational school instruction DVD, the Richmond Gear how-to DVD, read & made notes from lots of webpage write-ups by folks who've successfully done their own gears.

Not an all-inclusive list, but recommended tools are:
6" caliper
1" micrometer
machinists dial indicator with adjustable magnetic stand
pinion depth check tool
6" (or larger) vise
large shop press (i.e, 12ton)
(2) 1/2" or larger breaker bars w/ ample pipe extensions
1/2" drive ft-lb torque wrench
1/4" drive in-lb torque wrench w/ needle indicator
large bearing separator
yoke nut socket
cap bolt socket
ring bolt socket
crosspin retainer socket
adapters to fit yoke nut socket onto in-lb torque wrench
impact wrench (for removing bolts)
yoke holder (I got this one - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-18002/ )
5lb brass, copper, or aluminum hammer
2 crowbars (makes removing the carrier easier)
die grinder with 2" long straight rock (for making setup bearings)
whatever tools you use for removing/installing C-clips

Consumables:
red locktite (for ring gear bolts)
lots of brake cleaner & clean rags
gear marking compound
general lithium grease (pack new bearings in this, it blends well with gear oil)
2 cover gaskets or RTV
gear oil

The most important things are within yourself - patience and being meticulous. ;)

[sergei2008]

Any ideas on a local shop to get them done and spare me the frustrations?

[Hadfield4WD]

RPM

I can and have done it. However I have a local guy to me that charges me $50 if I bring him the axles or $150 if it's in the vehicle. It's easier and piece of mind for me.

[Want2Wheel]

$50 is cheap for getting this done.

[bcowanwheels]

Your better off getting someone who has the proper knoladge and "tools" to do the job right.
Jmo
bob

[Gubni]

RPM will do it for you, but ask their price by phone. I'm not sure what their labor rate is.

As for tools required I have done a some with no failures and I don't have any special tools. I was taught by someone who has done thousands though.

[99NCXJ]

50.00 is VERY cheap.

And I would probably use blue lock tite for ring gear bolts instead of red. Especially on an axle that the ring gear has to be removed from the carrier to install (replace) a lunchbox locker. That red stuff don't like to let loose.

[HotRodYJ]

50.00 is VERY cheap.

And I would probably use blue lock tite for ring gear bolts instead of red. Especially on an axle that the ring gear has to be removed from the carrier to install (replace) a lunchbox locker. That red stuff don't like to let loose.

I've always used red and new master kits come with red as well. I've never had any issue with removing bolts. Of course an impact wrench makes short work of the tear down.

[Bluegill]

I've always used red and new master kits come with red as well. I've never had any issue with removing bolts. Of course an impact wrench makes short work of the tear down.
:kewl:

[Hadfield4WD]

$50 is cheap for getting this done.

Keep in mind that's if I take him a bare housing or third member.