1990 YJ Project

[BillM]

Well I can't say I built it since Hotrod did all the work. But here is what all I have to do:

1. Rear shocks
2. Fuel line from tank to motor
3. Rear d-shaft
4. Exhaust
5. Motor mount repair
6. Drain plug in transmission pan
7. Bleed the rear brakes
8. Redo the seat mounts so that my short legs can reach the pedals when I scoot the seat up
9. Replace the outer driver side axle seal on the front
10. Redo the throttle spring. Way too stiff for my liking.




Now here is what I got done today:

Repaired the motor mount and cross member and finished all the fuel line. Adjusted the rear pinion angle to point more toward the output on the Tcase. Centered the rear axle. Wheelbase hase come out to 107". Popped some gas in it and she fired right up. Put it in 4HI and drove down the road and back. Funny that it is so soft in the back you would think that it would bounce real bad. Was not as bad as you might think. It is definitely loud so mufflers will be on the way.

Next thing I want to get done is the rear drive shaft. Then the brakes and shocks. More to follow.

[TiredIronGRB]

Dang son you were busting it weren't you :shock:

[Want2Wheel]

You got alot done. I think that he smells the trail. I am glad you are getting it done. It will be fun to see you out in it.

[BillM]

Well when I got home from work Terry was working on the rear. I had to pick up some things.

[Bluegill]

;-)

[Gordon]

:smokin:

[HotRodYJ]

Actually that filler hose IS rated for gasoline. I've checked the chemical compatability chart's. I wouldn't run it as a pressure line, but as a fill hose, it works just fine. I've used this stuff before for this purpose with no issues.

[BillM]

Cool deal Brian. You know I don't doubt you. I had a neighbor looking at it and he said it would slowly dissolve. Thanks for the info. One less thing to worry about. Original post edited.

[BillM]

Dang son you were busting it weren't you :shock:

Yeah I want to get it done before next year.... :wink: (J/K Brian)

[HotRodYJ]

So did you decide to just leave the motor where it is and weld the crossmember back together... for now?

[BillM]

Yeah for now. I will probably raise it up later but just want to get everything lined up and back in order before starting anything else. I know one thing I will need to do is put a tach in it. I never use my speedo much anymore while on the trail.

[HotRodYJ]

So how about some pics of that set-up? Show us how everything is tied together with bailing wire and duct tape 8)

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=116

Man that thing needs alot more work. Looks like some backyard mechanic just threw it together. Maybe even changed his mind on how to do the suspension stuff :lol:

[BillM]

Oh yeah...when I drove it last night...I didn't feel any squirrlieness in the back at all. Good job on the triangulation Brian. I can tell there are heims in the front steering though. Feels kind of weird at first. Kind of like the tires are going from this \ \===\ \ to this / /===/ /

[HotRodYJ]

Oh yeah...when I drove it last night...I didn't feel any squirrlieness in the back at all. Good job on the triangulation Brian. I can tell there are heims in the front steering though. Feels kind of weird at first. Kind of like the tires are going from this \ \===\ \ to this / /===/ /

That's not the heims causing that feeling unless they suddenly went bad. Heims are just as tight as a TRE until they wear. Check air pressure in the tires. If there is 2 psi in them they look fine but drive weird. Your just getting used to a new vehicle, they all feela little different :lol: Another part of the front end is those lousey springs. I've always felt they allow the front to walk a little bit. I always threatened to add a trac bar on the front to tighten it up. HD shackles would do wonders. It does have a shimmy above 55 mph that started when I put the Hummer wheels and big bias tires on there. With the old wheels and radials it didn't shimmy at all.

[BillM]

Ok Good Deal. Surely there is more than 2 psi in there? :lol:

The heims seem pretty tight. I just figured that would be where the movement is. Felt just like you said, "walking". I may try to find some better springs to put up front. Eventually I will link it.

Thanks for all the input on some of this.

[HotRodYJ]

Oh and the most obvious reason the steering feels funny especially right now.... Your driving on the front axle only... with a front locker... on pavement... DUH!!!

I missed that obvious diagnoses also :roll: .

[Hokie_YJ]

Bill I've got two YJ spring packs, they're stock with an AAL. If you think you can use them you can have them.

[BillM]

I will take em. Thanks Ben. I don't care what George says, you are a good guy.

Brian I never even thought of that. man oh man.

[BillM]

Picked up some cut fenders from Ted on Thursday evening. Not much to report since I was gone Yesterday and today.

[Hokie_YJ]

Just give me a yell when you want those springs and we'll get together.

[BillM]

One day this week will be good Ben. Just call me when you know what time you will get off work. Tomorrow could be good too.

[Jeep07]

Get this puppy done yet?

[BillM]

Glad you ask. You may have what I need. Any chance you have some 1x1 square tube, and maybe some round tube? I need some round at least 36" long. Not sure of the diameter yet. Probably somewhere around 2-2.5". No need for it to be DOM.

[Gubni]

I've got a stick of 2" HREW Tube that I need to get rid of. It's 20' long for $50

[BillM]

I may take you up on that Shawn. I am going to make me a new DS for the rear of the YJ. And a few other things.

[Jeep07]

I've got a stick of 2" HREW Tube that I need to get rid of. It's 20' long for $50

How thick is the HREW?

Does the 1x1 need to be tube or will solid stock work?

[Gubni]

I've got a stick of 2" HREW Tube that I need to get rid of. It's 20' long for $50

How thick is the HREW?

Does the 1x1 need to be tube or will solid stock work?

It's 11 guage.

[BillM]

I guess it can be solid. I just have to be able to weld it up to make a base for an auto shifter. Going to relocate the shifter to between the seats. If you have enough of it I might be able to use it to redo my seats.

[BillM]

Got a little more done last night. Removed all the seats. There are stress cracks in the tub floor on the outside mounting holes for both seats. Gonna have to work on that a little. Got Gordon looking for some mufflers and stuff for me. Looking at ordering some seat brackets today. along with a few other things. Going to get the shocks and get the mount location, make the tabs, and then get them on there. Decided on the new location for the shifter.

Hopefully will work on the brakes tonight. May pull the driver front wheel and check the axle seal that is leaking.

[TiredIronGRB]

Post up some pictures :wink:

[BillM]

I will get some this evening when I get home. I am TERRIBLE about taking pics. :lol:

[HotRodYJ]

Front axle seals are inboard next to the carrier bearings. The entire front end has to come apart and the diff has to come out to get to the axle seals. You ed up with an empty housing to get to them. Well you do get to leave the pinion in it but that's all.

[BillM]

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: I know you aren't kidding....But .....ARE YOU KIDDING ME? ;)

[Gubni]

hehe

[BillM]

I guess the seal can wait.

[Country Boy]

Bill, did you get my PM about a welder?
sorry for the hi-jack

[HotRodYJ]

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: I know you aren't kidding....But .....ARE YOU KIDDING ME? ;)

I shall not tell a lie. Actually I replaced both the axle seals last year and when I put it back together I noticed the axle shaft U-joint on the driver side was a bit stiff. I put it back in anyway thinking I'll just fix the joint later on. Well the stiffness of that joint wallowed out the new seal in a month and it started leaking again. I did change that U-joint so that problem is solved but I never got up the gumpshin to tear everything back apart again to fix the seal...again.

[Gubni]

Use a NAPA seal. I find they last much better than the autozone - advance seals.

[Hokie_YJ]

Yeah mine leaks just a little bit. I actually have the new seals to put in, but I'm not tearing it all the way down right now to replace them. :roll:

[BillM]

Ok here is the nightly update on the Jeep. Bleed all 4 brakes. You would think this would be easy. Not so much. I don't think the front ones were working at all. Maybe they were. When I opened the bleeder screw NOTHING came out to start with. Nothing a toothpick couldn't fix though.

Next we took some measurements and figured out how we are going to remount the seats in it and ditch the factory seat frames.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_003.jpg

Here are the stress cracks in the tub that will have to be plated:
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_002.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_006.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_007.jpg

Here is my new low back seat:
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_008.jpg

Tranny shifter will be moved back to the middle of the seats once they are set in place. I will have to patch the tunnel after moving it:
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_005.jpg

Here is what the fuel cell looks like. Brian gets credit for this. Not me.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_004.jpg

Here is a shot of the front end of the BEAST:
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_001.jpg

I should find out tomorrow about a rear driveshaft to use and find the mufflers. Also should be getting info on my steel to make the new seat mounts. Should be doing this first of next week. That is all for now.

[Jeep07]

very good, looks like you'll have it on the trail soon.

[BillM]

I am hoping to have it to a point next weekend to go to George's and put it on the RTI ramp so I can check the flex on it and get a good idea where I need to put the shocks and what I need the extended and compressed lengths to be.

[BroncoMike]

NIIIIIIICCCCEEE!!!!

[HotRodYJ]

When I opened the bleeder screw NOTHING came out to start with. Nothing a toothpick couldn't fix though.

Sounds like the bleed screws were stopped up with mud and junk

[Hokie_YJ]

Sounds like the bleed screws were stopped up with mud and junk


Yeah I've had that problem a few times.

[BillM]

You would be correct. all fixed now. :D Getting shocks today. Thank you Ben.

[BillM]

Got a little more done yesterday evening. Changed out the front fenders. Drivers side is not 100% complete but getting there.

Before:

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_001.jpg


After:

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_009.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_010.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_011.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_012.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_013.jpg

[Jeep07]

Needs bigger tires now :)

Looks good.

[Hokie_YJ]

Yeah some 42's would look sick on there. :smokin:

[BillM]

i would like to have some 42's. but i have no money. lol

[Gubni]

i would like to have some 42's. but i have no money. lol

Sell your 60's

[BillM]

:shock: I may sell one of the rears. But that wouldn't even get me close to buying 5 42's.

[BillM]

Well I went to get a DS from Steve today and came up empty. Still need a rear shaft for this thing.

[TiredIronGRB]

Have you checked with TheBoneYard? (http://theboneyardinc.com/)

[BillM]

I could make something work. Might need to change the transfer case yoke though. it is for a 1310.

Steve I found out the TC is a 32 spline output according to JB's website.

[Gubni]

I've got a pretty good assortment of shafts.

[pplblazerdude]

Ive got a few shafts laying around if you are interested. I have th shafts of this s-10 if you want to take a look at the you are more then welcome too.

[BillM]

I need one more than 31" long. You got anything like that?

[pplblazerdude]

I need one more than 31" long. You got anything like that? Very possible. Its late right now so its dark but I can look tm. I will check and let you know.

[HotRodYJ]

Bill you can always use conversion joints instead of swapping yokes. Bigger joints are typically stronger but nothing wrong with a conversion joint either.

[pplblazerdude]

The shaft I have is 33 from yoke to yoke. If you want to come look at it or want some pictures let me know.

[BillM]

I know there is a conversion joint on the bottom of the one that broke. Just thought if I could get a yoke for the tcase that runs a 1350 then I would only have to carry one spare.

Clint, That could work pretty good. I may call you shortly and see if you are going to be home and come look at it.

Shawn, Thanks for the offer buddy. If something doesn't work out close to me then I will give you ca call and swing over your way.

[BillM]

Ok thought I would give you a lil update.

Got the Drivers seat and frame bolted in for the last time.

Mounted the bracket we fabbed and mounted the Megashifter on it. Looks like a drag car...LOL

Dropped the tranny pan and changed the filter. Got the new pan cleaned and painted ready to go back on tomorrow.

Fabbed the plate to cover the hole in the transmission tunnel cut. Need to cut the hole for the TC shifter, drill the mounting holes, and bolt it down to the tunnel.

Tomorrow I will get all the above finished, and make, install, and mount the rear body mounts/bushings.

Left to do will be locate and mount rear shocks, have rear DS made and get the exhaust ran. Then it will be time to test it all out.

I will get some pics this evening. It was way to dark last night.

[TNRanger]

If it has an HD SYE with 32spline output like you said, Bill; then you can use a yoke from a Ford with an NP208. It'll go right on there use the same seal and all. I have a spare or two, but only for 1330/1330CV joints.

[BillM]

I do have the 231 HD with the 32 spline. I would love to get a 1350 from someone before I go get this driveshaft built so I don't have to find/keep an oddball ujoint. Matter of fact If I go with a regular DS with no CV then I will need another yoke anyway for the TC. Somebody sale me one cheap.

Does the 3/4 and 1 ton shafts have bigger joints in the CV? Or are they still 1310 like I have? Steve? I can't remember how big those ujoints were in that big Dodge DS you have.

[1-tonmudder]

I believe it's 1410,I know it's bigger than the 1350's I'm running.

[BillM]

I know the ends were 1410 but was the CV 1410 also?

[1-tonmudder]

No,it was a non CV shaft.

[BillM]

Ok here are some photos so Andy will get off my hiney.

Well I finished up the plate to cover the tranny tunnel and got all the holes drilled. I had it mounted but still have to bolt the shifter boot down.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_020.jpg

Also got the safety harnesses in and hole drilled for the lap belt and submarine belts. Shoulder belts will have to wait until I do some cage work.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_014.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_016.jpg

Here is the bracket my 15 y.o. grandson made for the shifter.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_018.jpg


Then I got some more shots of the bigger picture. You can see how I mounted the shifter so that when it is in drive it is vertical. It is a B&M Truck Megashifter. Ratchet type.
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_015.jpg
http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_1990_YJ_017.jpg

Oh and we also got the new tranny pan installed, and the rear body mounts fabbed, welded on, and bolted down. Once I get the final paint done on the tunnel cover and get it bolted down, then I will bolt in the passenger seat and mount that harness. Then it will be off to the driveshaft shop then the muffler shop. OHHHH and I vaccumed out the front half....LOL

[Bluegill]

=D> so you DO know how to use a camera! :lol:

Nice work bro, your 15y.o. grandson welded that shifter bracket? Wow!

[BillM]

He sure did. The design could be a little better to access the bolts on the bracket but with a wrench and a ratchet you can get it pretty easy. I still have to skin it with some 16-18 ga metal.

[TiredIronGRB]

Looking good Bill, the Fall Crawl should be a blast for you for sure now 8)

[TNRanger]

I'm gonna offer some advice Bill. I've built 2 fairly big Jeeps in the last year(although mine's not really big it's gone where all the big ones have); Mine and the red one with 42s. Both of them use 1310 u-joints with square tube driveshafts I built(trailered rigs of course although I wouldn't be afraid to drive mine anywhere). I've managed to break some 4340 axle shafts(Dana 60 not 44) without a driveshaft ujoint failure yet... So 1410s are uber cool and all, but I believe that's a whole lot of money poured in the wrong direction. Keep in mind that's my .02, buddy. What I'd do is get me a 1330 cv yoke for that T-case and use a 1980-1986 bronco shaft (cut to length of course). As long as the driveshaft has good .120"+ tubes it'll hold up just fine.

[Hadfield4WD]

I'm gonna offer some advice Bill. I've built 2 fairly big Jeeps in the last year(although mine's not really big it's gone where all the big ones have); Mine and the red one with 42s. Both of them use 1310 u-joints with square tube driveshafts I built(trailered rigs of course although I wouldn't be afraid to drive mine anywhere). I've managed to break some 4340 axle shafts(Dana 60 not 44) without a driveshaft ujoint failure yet... So 1410s are uber cool and all, but I believe that's a whole lot of money poured in the wrong direction. Keep in mind that's my .02, buddy. What I'd do is get me a 1330 cv yoke for that T-case and use a 1980-1986 bronco shaft (cut to length of course). As long as the driveshaft has good .120"+ tubes it'll hold up just fine.

I agree. Someone I wheel with called Tom Woods Driveshafts and got Tom on the phone. Asked him what joints he uses in his personal rig. It's 1310's.

[BillM]

Thanks for the comments folks.

Ranger/Hadfield4wd,
I appreciate this kind of feedback. Hotrod also commented on this once before to me. I was just thinking if I could go 1350 then I would only have to carry one type of spare and not have to use a 1310/1350 combo joint somwhere. Let me ask all of you this. What is a decent size tube diameter for this? I was talking to Bowman and he was thinking 3". Is this too much overkill? I may make me a trip to the junkyard tomorrow.

Steve, Would you have something like this? CV yoke that was mentioned earlier and maybe that drives shaft we looked at that you wanted a C for? I would much rather give you my business than someone else.

[Bluegill]

2" OD x .250" wall should be plenty strong. :wink:
Don't want the diameter too big - then it might become a contact issue on the trail.

[TNRanger]

3" is too big.

I would stay around 2.25"

[BillM]

That is what I was thinking too. I kept picturing in my mind, " 3" tube is HUGE." I will wait on Steve to respond if not then I will cal him and then think about the junk yard tomorrow. I hate going to the junkyard.

[Want2Wheel]

WWW.Theboneyardinc.com is your friend. They have alot of good stuff.

[BillM]

thank you Rob. I was trying to remember the name of that place.

[1-tonmudder]

I can do the flange and the CV end of a driveshaft no problem.It's the lenth that will probably put me out.

I have a Ford F-350 front shaft with a CV and I think I have a 1350 slip that will fit it,but I can't remember the lenth.It is probably a 2.5 tube.

[BillM]

Surely it would be at least 31-32 inches right?

[1-tonmudder]

Yeah probably.I'll try and look at it tommorow,got too much going on today with jakes b-day party.

[Andy1]

Bill, I had Bowan build me a 2" shaft for the front Danna 44 and used Ford 3/4 ton shaft in the rear with the Dana 60, but I do have to carry to different CV joints. When I flex to the max the front driveshaft barely rubs my Y pipe (no major problem a little dent with a hammer fixed it). Benny's in Bristol ran my exhaust so that it is far enough away from my transmission so it will not transfer a lot of heat. Also, I can get to my transmission bolts and pan easily to change filter and fluid. Had a 40 series Flowmaster installed. Something to thing about if running a Y pipe.

[BillM]

Thanks Steve. Greatly appreciated.

Andy,
Thanks for the tip man. I am planning on running true duals with 4" round Dynoflow(esque) turbos. One on each side. Then have it exit out between the frame and tub in front of the rear tire.

[Jeepguy16]

when you get your exhaust finished can you post up a picture, i want an idea of how to run mine, or tell me where you went.
Thanks
Chris

[BillM]

I will tell you where I am going. Jeff's pipe and muffler in Kpt. I think the price is going to be in the $120-130 range from the header flange back on both sides.

[BillM]

Yeah probably.I'll try and look at it tommorow,got too much going on today with jakes b-day party.

Any word on this Steve?

[BillM]

Well I finished off the seats, belts, tunnel cover, shift boot, and as of today, there is a brand new driveshaft and dual exhaust on here. This thing drives pretty good in 2HI. Now I need to work on thet shifter for the tcase. has WAY too much slop in it and doesn't want to shift in and out all the time. Should have that fixed tomorrow night. Then get the shocks worked out. George you may get a visit from the big red beast tomorrow or Friday. I want to use the ramp to flex the rear a bit to make a decision on the shocks. No need for pics unless you want to see this bright shiny driveshaft Bowman's made me.

[BillM]

Went to George's house last night to do a little testing. The front flexes like a brick. Doesn't hardly have ANY up travel to it. That will get fixed later. Big question was on the back end. Well, it flexes like crazy. So much so the springs will drop out of the buckets and the top of the spring will be 10" below the bottom of the buckets. And they don't just go right back in. 12" travel shocks would work about perfect on it. Just need to do something about the springs. Have an idea to make something to guide the springs back in and work as a bumpstop all at the same time. Not too sure if it is a GOOD idea or not. I guess we will see.

[HotRodYJ]

Flex Pic's?

[Andy's01]

Bill, one thing I have seen done several times is guys with this problem will get a large dia. tube the springs will fit inside of and make them tall enough to use as both a spring bucket and a bump stop.

[Jeep07]

Bill, one thing I have seen done several times is guys with this problem will get a large dia. tube the springs will fit inside of and make them tall enough to use as both a spring bucket and a bump stop.

Why not mirror the front of your TJ like a 2" Tube with a bumpstop on it and have the spring go around it. (I did this on the front of the xterra)

[Bluegill]

Flex Pic's?

You know, Bill & cameras don't speak the same language. :lol:
Maybe George can snap some pics.

[TiredIronGRB]

Springs are still way too short, he needs a softer longer spring. He wasn't half way up the ramp and the spring was out of the bucket 4 or 5 inches :shock:

[Jeep07]

Maybe a TJ rear spring retained at the top and bottom so it will ssttrreeaacchhh out. TN ranger runs my old stock rubi springs on his YJ and has had good luck with them. Pics below.

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/4link13.jpg

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/4link12.jpg

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/coil1.jpg

Anyway I saw the red devil tonight and it looks good.

[Bluegill]

Anyway I saw the red devil tonight and it looks good.

hhhhhmmmm - that sounds like an interesting nickname for Bill's beast. :grin:

But it does make me think of Kathy Bates in "Waterboy" :lol: :lol:

[BillM]

I was in the Jeep. No way I could take a pic....LOL We talked about that after we were on our way home.

I have thought about securing the spring at the top but it would sure stretch it. I got to looking at Coil-overs and Air Shocks and I just don't think I could swing it right now. I would be looking at $1000 just to get the back on air shocks. But I will figure is out.

[TNRanger]

I've got shade over 16" of travel outta Wesley's old Rubi coils. Here's how they are retained. The bumpstop in the middle has a ring bolted under the bumpstop that keeps the coil from coming off. It works extremely well. I can't get any more travel without moving my shocks and I don't wanna do that cause they give me such great dampning and conrtol outboard like they are. (BTW the jeep is cinched down in the pic)

http://www.rrorc.com/gallery/data/500/medium/rockrash1.jpg

[BillM]

Thanks a million guys. I have everything fixed up now. Colis are retained as they should be. Shocks are mounted. Went to George's today again and ran it through the rock garden in many many directions and it all works great. Here are some pics:

http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0463.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0464.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0466.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0467.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0469.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/4/5/5/HPIM0470.JPG

The rest can be seen here:

http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/browseimages.php?c=15458&userid=455

[Gordon]

Lookin' great, Bill.

[Bluegill]

Looks like Mr. Clean & his Dirt Devil are ready to roll! :smokin:

[TiredIronGRB]

Looks like Mr. Clean & his Dirt Devil are ready to roll! :smokin:

That's good :!:

[Bluegill]

Folks that haven't seen this Jeep in person need to hear the radiator fan to understand that one. :wink: :lol:

[HotRodYJ]

Looks good Bill !! I'm guessing you put a retainer on the top of the spring also? I sort of figured I'd end up doing that before it was over with. Oh and your tag is expired :lol: So how does it ramp now that the springs don't fall out?

[BillM]

I drove about halfway up the ramp and everything was still on the ground. I didn't try to go any higher. The front just don't want to flex near as much. I did bottom out one of the shocks though. It was while driving along on top of the hill at a good pace and hitting constant little bumps. Maybe if the shock was a little stiffer. I set them with 5" of up travel and they are at an angle. I really thought the tire would get into metal before the shocks would actually bottom. But I never rubbed a lick.

[BroncoMike]

Nice job Bill!

Now whatcha gonna do with ole yellar?

[BillM]

Not 100% sure. If they pass this stinkin $50/vehicle wheel tax in Washington County I may start walking. :shock:

[TiredIronGRB]

How do you think I feel, we've had it for years :cry:

[HotRodYJ]

Isn't Hawkins County like $27 actual wheel tax, for total of something like $50 to renew tags? Washington County is talking an additional $50 wheel tax per vehicle over and above the $24 for the tags. That's like $74 to renew tags.

[BJack]

If you own a home or piece of property worth more than $19,000 your still saving more money with the wheel tax rather than the proposed property tax increase :!:

[BillM]

This is true Brian. The property tax hike will be $.45 more. I will just get my tags in sullivan county....LOL

[BillM]

Well I took the YJ to Wooly's Offroad near Lawrenceburg, TN over the weekend for a bug run along with Andy01's wife's Jeep. It did really well. Seems to have some MAJOR axle steer, but nothing that can't be overcome. Ended up with a little trail rash. Caught the driver side of the top on a tree and tweaked the frame a little. Seem to have broken the drivers side lower shock mount pin. Not all the way off or anything. Also, the passenger rear tire actually got up in the fender. :shock: :shock: No pics to speak off though.

[Andy's01]

Bill, I thought your jeep performed very well. I would not stress over the axle steer. All of them lifted that much has some. I have noticed that mine has some as will but not enough to worry about.

[HotRodYJ]

Maybe an upgrade for future would be to triangulate the lower links as well. A double triangulated 4 link should have virtually no rear steer at all.

Love to see some pics of it in action. :cry:

[TiredIronGRB]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/skimblz/Jeep/Woolys%209-2-07/DSCN0551.jpg

[Andy's01]

True and that may be in my future if I dont like the Tri-Link setup.

[BillM]

Thanks George. That was probably one of the best X shots that they got of me. I was in the back so no one wanted to take pics of me.... :cry:

[BillM]

Here are a few more shots:

http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020531.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020532.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020533.JPG
http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020554.JPG


The tree that got my top:

http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020551.JPG

[Want2Wheel]

Nice shots.

[zj4life]

Bill I tryed to get as many pics of everyone that i could. It seemed like i was the only one taking pics!

[BillM]

I think you are right Phillip.

[HotRodYJ]

This is just wicked looking!!

http://www.itsajeep.org/vBulletin/gallery/files/1/5/1/4/P1020531.JPG

[BillM]

Ya like that???? ;)

[zj4life]

once again another great pic taken by me!

[Bluegill]

Those are some great flex shots Phillip. Of course the one posing takes all the credit. :lol:

Looking good Bill! :smokin:

[BillM]

That ain't posing. Look at the pic and notice the tires are a bit blurry......;) Phillip fussed at me all day about going to fast for him to take pics. :smokin:

[BillM]

Looking to recenter my wheels and add some rock rings/rim stiffners to them. Tell me what you think:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=489084&page=7&highlight=h1+wheel+centers
post 168 for this ring.

or these:
http://www.timbercrawler.com/tim/CRAWL_Issue_10_Cover.jpg

or these:
http://copperheadfab.com/images/products/H1Crflame_2.JPG


Tell me what you think.

[TiredIronGRB]

I like them, and the rock ring protection is a plus...just ask Ben :wink:

[Gubni]

I'd say get a smooth inner edge. That bottom one with the flames looks like it could slit a wrist while airing down and could get caught on a jagged rock.

[zj4life]

That ain't posing. Look at the pic and notice the tires are a bit blurry......;) Phillip fussed at me all day about going to fast for him to take pics. :smokin:

Man is that true!

i like those beadlocks!

[TiredIronGRB]

I'd say get a smooth inner edge. That bottom one with the flames looks like it could slit a wrist while airing down and could get caught on a jagged rock.

I agree it serves no purpose and would actually be a hindrance every time you worked on them.

[BillM]

I was thinking the same thing Shawn and George. I like the ones on the moon buggy. They go all the way in to the lug nuts.

[Gubni]

I was thinking the same thing Shawn and George. I like the ones on the moon buggy. They go all the way in to the lug nuts.

Is there room to get to the vavle stem to air up and down?

[TiredIronGRB]

I think it would be better to just go past the "two piece bolt" holes about a 1/4".

[Hadfield4WD]

I'd say get a smooth inner edge. That bottom one with the flames looks like it could slit a wrist while airing down and could get caught on a jagged rock.

I agree it serves no purpose and would actually be a hindrance every time you worked on them.

Yeah but looks cool.

[TiredIronGRB]

When I was a Harley mechanic we used to have a saying...

"Chrome won't get you home"

[R.E.C.O.N.45]

I like these from DIY:

http://www.diy4x.com/images/hummerlock.jpg[/img]

[Andy's01]

USA 6x6 makes some good looking stuff but I have never heard a good thing about their service. Everyone that I have ever talked to that bought from them says that they wont do it again. Bill, I will look on Pirate as there is supposed to be a guy on there selling some killer stuff for hummer wheels.

[Andy's01]

Here is a site with cool siffeners.

http://copperheadfab.com

[Gubni]

If it were me I'd go with the DIY style. You might check with Ted. I think he makes them also.

[Hadfield4WD]

When I was a Harley mechanic we used to have a saying...

"Chrome won't get you home"

You're right. I never liked chrome. But those centers do look cool and nothing a tetnous shot won't cure. :lol:

[R.E.C.O.N.45]

I forgot where I saw it but someone had the eagle globe and anchor of the marines as their design for beadlock. That is super awesome, but cant remember :oops:

[Hokie_YJ]

I like them, and the rock ring protection is a plus...just ask Ben :wink:

Nah, you don't need 'em, just ask George! :lol:
I think every one of mine has a bent lip now. :lol: I may get some this winter and put them on.

[Gubni]

I've heard the rebar trick works pretty good.

[BillM]

Andy, one is a design from copperhead and the others are from Shawn at GLO.

Ben, I got a price from Copperhead for 5 rim stiffners shipped for $112. Custom design and all.

[Hokie_YJ]

Man, that's a :smokin: deal!

[Andy's01]

Cool deal Bill on the stiffeners. Where are you getting your new centers? I read a really cool thread somewhere on how to do it but I cant seem to find it. Seems like the guy took his rotor assembly and sat it on a level floor and then bolted the new center to it and fit the rim up to it also on the level floor and tacked it in, flipped it over and welded it out.

[R.E.C.O.N.45]

usa6x6 has new centers for h1 rims.

[BillM]

Either get them from Copperhead or from GLO. Copperhead said he would do most any kind of custom design for the same price.

[admar2]

Cool deal Bill on the stiffeners. Where are you getting your new centers? I read a really cool thread somewhere on how to do it but I cant seem to find it. Seems like the guy took his rotor assembly and sat it on a level floor and then bolted the new center to it and fit the rim up to it also on the level floor and tacked it in, flipped it over and welded it out.


that technique sounds like the trick!


I'm sure they'd be good enough for offroad use anyways. not sure if they'd be good enough for hi-speed use.

I think the tolerance for runout on "streetable" wheels is something like .010 or something like that. its pretty tight.

[admar2]

usa6x6 has new centers for h1 rims.


everything I've heard says to stay the heck away from USA 6x6

[Derrickalda]

usa6x6 has new centers for h1 rims.


everything I've heard says to stay away from USA 6x6

ive talk to Stan (i think thats his name) and he drives the big 6x6 green dodge from 4wheelers top truck challenge. his truck was like their first and hes all about USA6x6....I've seen some of their other stuff too on the trail....it looks quality!......but thats just my 2 cents

[BillM]

Order these today:

http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstores.com/Dana-44-Coil-over-Shock-mountsgussets_p_28-1151.html#

Should have them by Tuesday or Wed. Replacing my front lower shock mounts for them. Going to see if a lil someone on here can bend me some shock hoops and weld some tabs to it.

[BillM]

Called up Poly Performance to order these:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/files/t_84_02.jpg

They didn't have them on the shelf so they offered me these at 15% off $119/ea:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/files/t_639_03.jpg

The Fox's are completely rebuildable from top to bottom. Ordered bumpstops for them and he said he would go ahead and throw those on there for me so I don't have to fool with it. Bolt on outta the box. Just too cool to deal with them. Should be here Friday or Monday.

Also ordered these rock rings from Greatlake Offroad:
http://www.timbercrawler.com/tim/CRAWL_Issue_10_Cover.jpg
And some solid wheel centers.

[Jeep07]

Nice.. Did you get the trucker lady rock rings?

[BillM]

I did. I think Shawn calls them the Sexy Lady rings. $115 shipped to my door for 4.

[BroncoMike]

Nice score on the shocks Bill. You are definately doing some nice work on the jeep! Keep it up man!!

[TiredIronGRB]

That's an unnreal price on those shocks :shock:

[BillM]

They are normally $140 each. Because he didn't have the BBCS' for the leaf spring vehicles he is giving anyone wanting the BBCS' the Fox 2.0's for $119/ea. Bad thing is no free shipping on the Fox but the BBCS' have free shipping. George you could go with those for the back of your rig. He has the ones valved for coil springs on the shelf ready to go. $99/ea and free shipping. I won't say on here what the BBCS stands for. They have a built in bumper for use as a limiting strap and an external bumper for use as a bumpstop. As long as you aren't jumping it or anything.

[HotRodYJ]

Are these air shocks so you can loose the coil springs?

[BillM]

No they are just nitrogen charged emulsion shocks for the front. The Airs are $225/ea. I can't do anything to the back until the wheels are recentered.

[BillM]

Look what I got in the mail today.

http://www.4x4grace.com/Coppermine/albums/userpics/10004/normal_img023.jpg

Not sure about these....Looks like I need springs to go with em.

[BroncoMike]

I thought you were getting Fox shocks not coil over shocks!

[BillM]

Well these are Fox.... :grin: :grin:

[admar2]

nice coilovers bill.

[BroncoMike]

Well these are Fox.... :grin: :grin:

Well Duh huh :P I thought you were just getting shocks alone though!!!

[BillM]

I ended up with the 2.0 Coilover with the dual rate kit. No Reservoir though.

[Jeep07]

So when are you linking the front end?

[BillM]

Well I have a few things I need to figure out first. No way I could link the front before Harlan so I am going to repair my shock mount on the drivers side and run the old shocks for Harlan. I will look at everything else after that.

I am going to call Poly Performance and let them know what that they shipped out the wrong thing. Again, these don't look entirely like new shocks to be honest. But I will talk to them about it and either pay the difference and keep them or have them send me what I ordered and send these back. Just depends on what they say.

[BillM]

Call me crazy but I have contacted Poly Performance about the mix up. Just don't feel right about keeping something I didn't pay for. I am going to snap a couple of pics for them since they look like they have been used and send to them. They want to send me the shocks I paid for and me send these back since they would be losing a large amount of money in comparison. I may see if they want to knock off the shipping costs that they will incur and see if they will sell me the CO's to save all the hassle. Still won't be able to use them right now but would sure help in the long run. If they don't want to do that then I am going to insist that they overnight me the smooth bodies since I am running out of time and it is their fault. If they don't want to do that then I will maybe cancel the order and buy FOA CO's for a lot cheaper down the road.

[TiredIronGRB]

That was the right thing to do :wink:

[BillM]

Well, got off the phone with Poly. I am keeping the CO's. I will be ordering the coils from them also once I figure out the spring rates I will need. Can't tell ya what I paid for em, gave him my word I wouldn't. But it was a good enough deal that I couldn't pass it up. He told me I can run it as a standard shock I just have to remove the hardware. Now I need to go see Drake and get some shock hoops built and welded on. Just goes to show you that doing the right thing is ALWAYS right. Thank you Lord.

[Want2Wheel]

You did the right thing. Thank You

[BillM]

Oh don't thank me. Thank God that I avoided temptation. [-o<

[BillM]

Well I sold the 38's and the stock HMMV wheels yesterday and picked up my 14/42-16.5's. Got home from church today and went to work trying to mount them. Well after about 2 hours I got one tire on. Had to put the mag runflat in it just to be able to get it to take air. I bet I put 20-30 gallons of air into that tire and it STILL doesn't have 10psi.

Couple of questions:

I tightened the cap head nuts on the wheels down to 120 ft/lbs. Is this too much? I looked on a website talking about the 8 and 12 bolt wheels and that is what it says to put them at.

I sold the beadlocks that were in the other wheels so I am going to have to buy some, make some, or cut the runflat portion of the mags down. What do you think is the best direction to go with this?

I am going to be needing some link material also. I am thinking 2" on the lowers but not sure what the best wall thickness would be. If I could get it so all I have to do is thread the inside for the size joints or hiems I would be using that would be a good thing. For the uppers I was thinking 1.5". My thoughts are to use the rear lowers to make the front uppers so I will only need the 2" to do new lowers front and back.

I will also need some rec tube to make some cross members and to figure out how to redo the back half so I can get the body lift off. Does anyone have any of these materials?

I actually think I can run these tires without changing anything other than fabbing some bumpstops. But I would like to keep the total height as low as possible.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated.

[TiredIronGRB]

Do you mean 120 ft lbs? I always torqued them to 90 ft lbs on the 12 bolt wheels. You should order the same runflats that Ben used, they worked perfectly.

[Hokie_YJ]

IIRC, I torqued my 8-bolts to like 50-55 ft./lbs. I definitely recommend the Stazworks inserts, like George said they work perfectly. You do have the o-rings on your wheels don't you?

[BillM]

Yeah I meant ft/lbs....LOL Yes I have the o-rings. How much are these things Ben? I looked at Stauns and they are something like $160 each :O Not paying that much.

[HotRodYJ]

If it's got 10 psi then it is holding air just taking a long time to get the volume to build pressure. Have you tried removing the valve core when you air up? This allows MUCH more air thru at once and sometimes makes all the difference in trying to seat a tire for the first time, or simply trying to get up to pressure. You can actually use the quick connect of the air hose directly on the stem with core removed instead of using a chuck for maximum volume. The hose will someties get stuck doing this and takes a bit of effort to get back off, but both of these methods may help you out if you've not tried them. With the core still in the stem there is WAY to much restriction to allow enough air volume thru to inflate that size of tire. Both methods allow massive quanities of air thru the stem but obviousley they also allow it to escape as soon as you remove the hose so you over pressure a little and be quick about getting the core back into the stem. At 10psi if there are any air leaks in the wheel, you should be able to hear them and find where it's coming from. Sometimes you may need to lubricate the O-ring with Vasoline to get it to seal properly.

Good luck.

[BillM]

Yeah Brian, I have removed the cores before. No way I could get the coupling to the valve stem with the rock rings on it. I can tell there is air in it just from feeling the sidewall. I left that one leaning against the jeep last night and will check it today to see if I can feel a difference. I have to take it back apart anyway. I found the Stazworks inserts last night and they are like $50/ea. Looks like the best way to go unless someone has rubber beads laying around for a HMMV wheel. :lol: :lol:

[Hokie_YJ]

Yeah i paid $50/per for mine. Very well worth it IMO. When you get them you'll think how in the heck am i gonna get this inside that tire. They're like 1/2" thick plastic, but they're actually very easy to work with. A ratchet strap, two pry bars, and a rubber mallet and you're good to go.

[BillM]

Should get my plate for the skid plate around Wed or so.....Thank you Drake. I will be laying out the template and cutting the plate. Already have the template for my motor mounts. I can get the Novak mounts for just over $100 and that includes both pieces for each side and the bushings. Once we get the drivetrain set, then we will start redoing the back half of the frame to allow the coilovers and to be able to drop the body down to a 1" body lift.

[BillM]

Well still don't have my skid metal. But that is ok. Just thought I would update that I ordered my HDPE plastic beadlock inserts today. John said the material should be here today and he should be able to get them made and out the door to me come Monday. I am doubting that will happen but we will see.

[Jeep07]

Do something to this thing.

[BillM]

I looked at it. Money is just not there right now for this type of thing. Gotta keep the lights on first. ;)

[Gubni]

Any progress?

[BillM]

Will be now....LOL I have money.