View Full Version : xj rear axel up grade?
af82ram
04-27-2011, 07:53 PM
i have a 95 xj im wanting to up grade the rearend to a d44 or an 8.8 any ideas?
Bluegill
04-27-2011, 08:16 PM
Go with an 8.8 :kewl: '95-'00 Explorers already have disc brakes on them; stronger than a D44 (just barely under a semi-float D60 in strength per Warn testing), same bolt pattern, ideal width, and easy to work on. All you'd need for an XJ swap is - spring perches, shock mounts, yoke adapter, and e-brake cables (or adapters).
tnzuk
04-27-2011, 08:59 PM
if you go with a 8.8 mountain offroad enterprises (m.o.r.e offroad) has a great convesion kit or superior has a nice upgrade for this axle.
96 coutry cherokee
04-27-2011, 09:43 PM
29 spline Chry 8.25 cheap (like maybe a 100 bucks) and bolts right in and just as strong as a D44 IMO
99NCXJ
04-27-2011, 10:44 PM
29 spline Chry 8.25 cheap (like maybe a 100 bucks) and bolts right in and just as strong as a D44 IMO
I wheeled hard on a 29 spline 8.25 on 36" iroks and never had any problems.
The 8.8's are very stout axles too. Just a little more work to put in.
XJ d44's are hard to find and usually not cheap.
If disk brakes are part of your want list, you can get brackets, rotors, calipers, and flex lines from a zj Dana 35 and with very little modifications they will work on the 8.25
Camjeep3
04-28-2011, 12:09 AM
id also go ahead and get an 8.25. It will be easy to find and easy to put in like others said. If it was a bolt on option for my comanche it is probably what i would have gone with, but i did the 8.8 instead
TNjeeper97
04-28-2011, 07:51 AM
af, yours has the 27 spline 8.25 in it now.
Jazzman31
04-28-2011, 08:41 AM
I had to decide between 8.8 or Dana 44.
8.8 axle in town was 200$, disc brakes etc...
I would have to change the gear ratio to my 3.73
Knox Auto Parts had a Dana 44 in the yard with 3.73 gears, but it had drum brakes
900$
With the mods and then the gear swap, I figured go with less pain and install the 44.
One of the axle shafts flanges was bent on my axle when I got it. I went ahead and bought Chromos from Rustys for 180$(both sides) and I recieved a refund of 100$ for the bent axle shaft.
So for 980$ including tax, I now have a chromo Dana 44.
You might want to go with the 8.8, or the 8.25.
Go with what is cheaper and more realistic for you.
af82ram
04-28-2011, 09:19 AM
i have a 95 xj im wanting to up grade the rearend to a d44 or an 8.8 any ideas?
i have the 8.25 now i was looking for something with disc breaks & easy to up grade i have a 8.8 with discs now that i could use.
af82ram
04-28-2011, 09:32 AM
OK.. i have a 27 spline 8.25 now so i want to get disc off a zj? what mods do i need to do to make it wk? who makes gear & axel upgrades for the 8.25....?
Bluegill
04-28-2011, 09:35 AM
Let's detail the specifics as it relates to what you'd need for an 8.8:
I paid $75 for my 8.8 (from a '97, 3.55 ratio, open diff)
Ford Motorsports 4.10 gears - $150 (from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/Ford-Racing/Part-Type/Ring-and-Pinion-Gears/?Ns=Rank|Asc))
gear install kit $74 (from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-305K/))
yoke adapter - $40 (from Mad4WD (http://mad4wd.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=340))
e-brake cable adapter $35 (from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-EC-81FC/) this allows use of your stock e-brake cables)
XJ bracket kit $150 (from Mad4WD (http://mad4wd.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=324))
Other than actually buying the 8.8, these are current prices (links in parentheses) - I bought my 8.8 about 3yrs ago, IIRC. So far we have a subtotal of $524 for an axle that Warn proved to be superior to a D44. If you can weld - or have a friend that can do it for you, you'll save labor on installing the brackets. Gear installs are intimidating, but an 8.8 is one of the easiest axles to work on, plus the FMS gearsets are easier to setup than any other aftermarket brand. I am installing my own gears, obviously saving $$$ on labor. But even if you pay someone to install the gears, $250 is about what you'll pay for labor - which brings the grand total to $774 plus shipping on the parts.
If you add chrome-moly shafts to the 8.8, you'll have an axle that Warn rates equal to or stronger than a semi-float D60 - although it's only marginally heavier & larger than a D35. As for my own swap, the TJ brackets cost more and I splurged for an E-Locker - but I am very pleased with my choice.
af82ram
04-28-2011, 09:55 AM
I think the 8.8 is the best choice for me to. The parts are cheaper than the 8.25 & easyer to get.
Camjeep3
04-28-2011, 01:51 PM
what are you looking to do with the jeep? and what are you trying to accomplish. I believe you would be able to do everything you need on your 8.25,
shafts
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=294
lockers(thats just a few options)
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=197
gears
http://www.jeepinoutfitters.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=232
the parts are easy to get and the prices shouldnt be too much different. I believe in the end you would be happy with avoiding having to swap the axle
96 coutry cherokee
04-28-2011, 05:02 PM
http://home.swbell.net/rriojas3/reardisk.html
How to
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/zj-rear-disc-conversion-8-25-write-up-whole-truth-607435/
Another how to
I did the disk brakes on my 8.25 (geared 456s) for 40 buck (before pads and rotors after was in the area of 150 bucks) You can also move your shock mounts up for free (If you or someone you know can weld) If you want more info let me know I have done all that lol
Hadfield4WD
04-29-2011, 08:38 PM
What size tires?
af82ram
05-03-2011, 09:51 AM
what size tires?
im gonna run 35x12.50x17" km2's on it with some trim work.
Hadfield4WD
05-03-2011, 10:51 AM
I'd stick with the 8.25. Get some alloys. They are 29 spline and pretty strong. I would say it's just as strong as a D44. I've got a couple buddies who run this with 35's and no problems. One still has stock shafts. All have lockers and beat pretty hard on them. I'd be more concerned about the front.
af82ram
05-03-2011, 04:49 PM
i'd stick with the 8.25. Get some alloys. They are 29 spline and pretty strong. I would say it's just as strong as a d44. I've got a couple buddies who run this with 35's and no problems. One still has stock shafts. All have lockers and beat pretty hard on them. I'd be more concerned about the front.
what should i try to go with on the front for a upgrade
Hadfield4WD
05-03-2011, 05:31 PM
If you are truely going to stay with 35's stick with the D30. Get these alloy shafts.
https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=106&osCsid=4285ed8a1c6c10b098a2b94aa803973c
Beef up your steering to be able to turn.
Try this one.
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNST&Category_Code=S6
96 coutry cherokee
05-03-2011, 09:54 PM
Matt that steering has alot of dead spots I did (not sure if this is the right name) inverted T setup. The drag link went to the top of the knuckle where as the tie rod when under on both sides
Like so... (not my xj)
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs060.ash2/36364_517930986793_180200196_30759948_8068260_n.jp g
Hadfield4WD
05-04-2011, 07:43 AM
Matt that steering has alot of dead spots I did (not sure if this is the right name) inverted T setup. The drag link went to the top of the knuckle where as the tie rod when under on both sides
Like so... (not my xj)
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs060.ash2/36364_517930986793_180200196_30759948_8068260_n.jp g
Define alot. I rode one exactly like it for years. Infact still do. No problems. Yes the tie rod rolls causing a slight deadspot. (with my hydro assist there is no dead spot anymore) They have a bushing to put in. BTW the steeper the angle of the drag link the more you'll feel the deadspot. Because the drag link is pushing down and across. Do the over the knuckle one and that angle will be less and thus less of an issue. It's just not as big of an issue the internet makes it out to be. There are more issues with the stock setup.
Yes heims work well but are not as good for road use and will require changing more often. Like any modification drive accordingly.
Or you could get this one, but it's stupid expensive, keeps stock tre's and stock geometry. It's just beefier rods.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219
96 coutry cherokee
05-04-2011, 04:39 PM
I guess the dead spots were a big deal to me with and without the bushing (I tried both) because of all the highway driving that I do. I never replaced my heims but I also didnt have them for to long (6 monthesish?) I never had hydro so I had the joy of the dead spots. I guess in the end it comes down to what you like and what your plans with it are. I have to agree with you Matt the internet does make it out to be a bigger deal then what it really is.
BrandonFranklin
07-10-2011, 10:16 PM
i dunno if im aloud to say this is this part of the forum but if so i have a 8.25 for sale if you want it ill take 100
jeep cherokee sport
07-14-2011, 10:07 AM
i also think you should go for the 8.25. thats what mine has and my buddy just swaped his D35 for a trused 8.25 and is way happier with it. They are very good rearends. BUT so is the 8.8 haha hard decision!
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