Let's start over again

[Gubni]

Ok today I drove over 450 miles. I left at 8am and got back at 9pm. I dropped off the buggy to someone with lots of experience. Everything purple will be replaced. I hope it goes well this time.

Expected build time is 2 months and it should be turn key. :kewl:

new rig specs

2 seater
24" frame
48-50" cab
narrowed in a little at the roof
keep similar roof design
XRRA and KOH comp legal (no plans to compete)
more storage
easy helmet storage
air cleaner protection
front and rear tow points
rear view mirror
passenger handle - bicycle style with pin to be removable
window nets
side panels (skins)
klune-V 4:1 doubler (evil grin)


current features I want to keep

low and narrow as possible
flat belly pan HDPE
roof design except recess panels a little
awesome approach and departure angles
small functional stinger that doesn't interfere with approach angle
radiator protection (grill)
tail lights with brake
all vent lines tied together
108-110" wheelbase

rules
XRRA (http://www.xrra.com/Event%20Entry%20Forms/2010%20XORRA%20Rules%20and%20Regulations.pdf)
KOH (http://www.kingofthehammers.com/pdfs/KOHrulebook_rev108.pdf)

[Gubni]

Found some seat sliders. I think the price is kinda crazy, but plan to use the same ideal. The spring loaded handle is what really makes it work.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Poly-Performance-Universal-Suspension-Seat-Slider-p-24671.html

[Gubni]

Trying to find some radios.

kit for $89 (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dual+-+50W+x+4+AM/FM/CD+Marine+Receiver+with+Detachable+Faceplate+-+White/9175242.p?id=1218048339037&skuId=9175242)

[Hadfield4WD]

go for this one. I have a couple friends that run it in open buggys.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828229

[Gubni]

go for this one. I have a couple friends that run it in open buggys.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=828229

That doesn't have a CD player with it, but I sent him a PM.

[Jeep07]

Radio? Some speakers with some kind of amp with an IPOD or something is pretty common. I don't even have a radio in mine and I've never really missed one.

[Gubni]

I've never had any music in the buggy so I thought something would be nice, but I don't have an MP3 player and really don't care about music that much so radio is my thought.

[redplastic2p3t]

most mp3 players have an fm receiver built into them

[ParadisePWoffrD]

call up Brandon at Rides... he has that same type setup for a good price...

I am going to go that way in my bronco, as radio sucks and cds skip in a rig...

Also, you can get a really cheap mp3 player to just have something that you wont mind getting wet or broken (I think Brandon said he paid like $30 for his)... but I have thought about getting a case from a boat to mount on the dash, so I can use my Droid & play pandora or MP3s, and the case would keep it from getting wet/broke...

maybe sometihng like this:
http://www.rocktheboataudio.com/html/55012.html

[Gubni]

I think I am going to go with an MP3 player with tuner and then buy an amp and speakers. Got to look into that some more. Does the AMP need to be waterproof or are they all factory sealed?

The Klune V adds 6" to the drivetrain. I currently have a 26" rear driveshaft and 108" wheelbase. Going to stretch the wheelbase to 110". That leaves 4" Going to move the motor forward 2" inches and shorten the rear driveshaft 2". That still gives and 24" driveshaft and the lip of the oilpan will be over the front axle.

[Gubni]

My summary of KOH qualification rules related to building my buggy

1. first aid kit inside cab and accessed "without having to remove any body panels or equipment".
2. Must have a loud horn
3. 2.5lb or greater fire extinguisher with guage and accessible from inside the cab and another on the outside of the vehicle
4. Vent lines must be routed to a fluid containment system to prevent spills on the ground.
5. Emergency brakes are required - electric line lock is ok.
6. Master kill switch is required. Winch and low amp circuits may bypass it
7. "Batteries shall not be located in the occupant's compartment."
8. Two taillights at least 3" are required A 40 to 55w amber light is required and must be at least 48" from the ground. All lights must come on with vehicle ignition.
9. "There must be a substantial cross member and firewall between the fuel tank and the occupants."
10. floorboards need to be 20ga steel, 20ga expanded metal, or 1/8" lexan
11 exhaust must extend a minimum of 1 foot past the rear of the cab and directed away from tires
12. 1.5" x .120 tubing for a vehicle weight less than 3200lbs. 3201 to 4200lb requires 1.75 cage excluding fuel, spares, tools, and occupants
13. "All roll cage components (hoops, braces, gussets, etc.) must have a minimum of 3" clearance from any vehicle occupant's helmet when occumpant is seated in a normal driving/riding position. All roll cage components that might come in contact with the vehicle occupants helmets must be padded"
14. "Gussets should be install at all major intersections, including diagonal and rear down braces, where single weld fractures can affect occupants safety. Gussets constructed of .125x3x3 flat plate or split, formed and welded corner-tubing, or tubing gussets made of the same material and thickness as the cage may be used."
15 1/8" aluminum must cover the area over the seats and bolted to the cage.
16 windows nets must be installed on the inside of the cage. Net must be attached minimum of every 6 inches.
17. "firewalls and/or bulkheads must separate the driving compartment from any fuels, engine fluids, and acids." including power steering fluid?
18. Must have a hood
19. Firewall shall have no more than .0625" gap around items passing through and metallic tape must be used to seal the hole and be liquid tight.
20. floorboards are required and must be from in front of the pedals to behind the seats and use at least 6 .25" bolts. I want it to be two parts so joints can be accessed without removing the seats if possible.
21. rearview mirror is required

[Gubni]

XORRA rules related to my build

1. "The cage must not have any space wider than 24" above the drivers head" and gussets must be weleded in the 4 main corners.
2. firewalls must be .040 aluminum, 20 guage steel, or 1/8" lexan
3. Hood must lock down on 4 corners and be be .040 aluminum, 20 guage steel, or 1/8" lexan
4. Body panels are required (need to be recessed in the tubing some)
5. Seats must have padded rib protectors

[Gubni]

Things to get or consider.

With the klune-V the transfer case will be mostly under the seat. I may need a cable shifter.

I don't plan to compete in KOH and that orange light would look goofy.

I like hard seats, but comp requires padded rib area. I'm not sure if that means I need suspension seats?

I am worried about weight. One of the reasons it has done so well is that it was light weight. I don't want it too heavy.

[Hadfield4WD]

I know there are some series that require a single B pillar from side to side with a total bend of no more than 180*

[Gubni]

I know there are some series that require a single B pillar from side to side with a total bend of no more than 180*

Thanks, easy enough to add that in there to make sure it's not a problem.

[TNRanger]

You'll have a nice rig, Shawn. I talk to Richard quite often, he's a good guy.

[Gubni]

Scored some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for .25 cent a pound yesterday. :) Might use it to replace some of the link arms. Should I go with aluminum instead?

Aluminum flexes and bends back where steel is more resistant to bending, but stays bent. I am worried about fatigue which may eventually cause aluminum to crack. Also I cannot weld in a new bung if I mess up the threads with a bad heim.

Is an aluminum link lighter than steel? I think most are solid where steel is hollow, so maybe the same weight?

[99NCXJ]

Aluminum would be a little lighter even being solid but it doesn't hold up as long as steel. I used an aluminum upper link and steel lowers.

[Hadfield4WD]

You're only talking a couple pounds difference. I know it all adds up but since you have the steel I'd use it.

[Gubni]

Pics!

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug1.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug2.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug3.jpg

[Gubni]

Time for more pic. One of the important things to me was to keep a similar design to the roof. I really like the way it looked and the extra bed up is extra strength in a roll also. You can see that in these pics.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug4.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug5.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug6.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug7.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug8.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug9.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug10.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug11.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug12.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug13.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug14.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug15.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug16.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug17.jpg

[Jeep07]

Looks good. Do the rig some justice and get some quality seats. Also are you keeping the front coil springs or changing to airshocks or c/o's?

[Gubni]

Ok, on the seats I've beat myself up over that many times. The final decision is that I feel they are safer since there's no spring in them for the person to move within the harness and I was comfortable with them in my old buggy. As for the front suspension I also was very happy with the coil springs. They have equal resistance both up and down which is an advantage over airshocks. They never limited my flex and help to keep it stable.

[Jeep07]

If you prefer a solid seat then buy a kirky or something that is tougher than the plastic. I think Roger clendenon racing keeps them in stock down this way if you wanted to look at them. The thing I don't like about the plastic is the metal mounting bungs have a tendency to rip out.

[Gubni]

Thanks for the comments. I will look into it some more. I use a 5 point harness and the crotch belt holds it down pretty good. I rolled the other buggy many times and never had any problems.

[TNRanger]

looks like Richard is fixing you right up, Shawn. Nice! You went back with a D300 behind the klune it looks like?

[Gubni]

looks like Richard is fixing you right up, Shawn. Nice! You went back with a D300 behind the klune it looks like?

Yep, stock D300. I really enjoyed the way it worked and it never gave any problems.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

SO you gonna paint this one purple too?

[Gubni]

SO you gonna paint this one purple too?


NO! :laughing4:

[Gubni]

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug18.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug19.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug20.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug21.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug22.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug23.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug24.jpg

[Jeep07]

Is the front axle setup using the stock steering arms?

[Gubni]

Is the front axle setup using the stock steering arms?

Yes and no. Here's an old pic. The stock hole in the knuckle is used. An arm has been welded to the knuckle with a spacer under the tierod. This gives it a double sheer and IMO makes it stronger than normal highsteer and it's almost as high.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/buggy/321e.JPG

[Hokie_YJ]

The steering is set up very similar on my buggy, and I agree with Shawn I think it's stronger than a standard high steer set up. I guess there wasn't much choice on mine though, there's not many options for high steer on my axle.

[Jeep07]

How thick is the top arm? 1/2" plate? I need to do that to mine on this new buggy. In the Toyota world the stock arms are easier on knuckle studs etc. I figure the same is true with the 1 ton stuff.

[Gubni]

Yes, it's half inch.

[yoder519]

niceeeee. that looks awesome. is that a 22RE your runnin? hahahah. cant wait to see it finished.

[Gubni]

niceeeee. that looks awesome. is that a 22RE your runnin? hahahah. cant wait to see it finished.

How'd you know? Must have been the 8 exhaust ports. :eusa_think:

[Rtaylor]

How'd you know? Must have been the 8 exhaust ports. :eusa_think:

Funny. I always thought that Ford engines had the distributor in the front....

[Gubni]

Funny. I always thought that Ford engines had the distributor in the front....

The motor is in backwards. More torque in reverse rotation.

:laughing4:

[fivetreoh]

... now that's funny.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

Buggy is looking good. Now lets see some pictures of the sami in the back ground along with some info.

[Gubni]

Sorry, no sami pics, but did you know my buggy started as a sami and was upgraded a little at a time until the only thing left was the frame? Well that has been replaced now. :)

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug25.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug26.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug27.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug28.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug29.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug30.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug31.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug32.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug33.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug34.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug35.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug36.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug37.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug38.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug39.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug40.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug41.jpg

[TNRanger]

awesome looking chassis.

[Country Boy]

lookin good!

[Gubni]

Going to work on rims and tires tomorrow. Decided to go with 44" TSL's on 15x10 rims screwed and tubed like my others. Going to TN cut them when I get a groover. Going to go work on it some Friday and do some test fitting.

[Gubni]

Went up a did some fitting Friday. Going to readjust the seat some, redo the propane tanks to make it easier to get out and add some triangulation to the fender area. Any ideals on how to make the front coil spring mount look better? The tube at an angle will do the job, but it's pretty boring.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug42.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug43.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug44.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug45.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug46.jpg

[Horton]

there you go again!..LOOKS,LOOKS!...better leave the man alone and let him build safe and strong

[Gubni]

there you go again!..LOOKS,LOOKS!...better leave the man alone and let him build safe and strong

Actually he's the one that asked me about it.

[Hokie_YJ]

You could just box it in with sheetmetal, i think that would make it look a little better.

[rwells]

Im going to do something with it. I tried 3 or 4 different things and then put the tube in it and told myself to stop dwelling on it and something would pop into my mind on it. But it is hard to dress up a coil spring. thought about rolling a piece of sheet metal around it.

[Hokie_YJ]

It doesn't look bad they way it is, but I understand wanting to add a little something to it.

[99NCXJ]

How about a gusset with a dimpled hole in the middle?

[rwells]

I guess im wanting to do something neat but yet fantasy because its going to be on the outside of the body panels and will be seen. Thats my down fall sometimes i try to spend to much time on details trying to make everything perfect and pretty. I guess thats why it took me 18 months to build my last crawler.

[Gubni]

More pics!

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug47.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug48.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug49.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug50.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug51.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug52.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug53.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug54.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug55.jpg

[Gubni]

More pics. Going to pick it up this weekend.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug56.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug57.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug58.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug59.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug60.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug61.jpg

[ParadisePWoffrD]

man that sheetmetal work looks killer.. he spent some time on the roller for sure...

[pplblazerdude]

Is there going to be a bar across the footwell area or is it going to be just left open?

[Gubni]

Plan to leave it open.

[highrolrcustoms]

looks really good!!!

[Gubni]

Decided on new front suspension. :)

http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af291/redarcher89/Jeep/IMG_0068.jpg

[garlandg]

ever think of useing an eb hood? just an idea, i know i've seen alot of tj liberty and fj buggys but an eb buggy would be different.

[Gubni]

Yes I have, but this one is chevy powered with chevy axles. I hope to build a ford powered buggy one day with EB stuff on it.

[BroncoMike]

I like it Shawn, actually like it a lot better than before!

[Gubni]

More pics. Had to redo the cage for more head room and better triangulation. Also had to redo the rear so the tanks could be taken out without removing a tire.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug62.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug63.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug64.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug65.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug66.jpg

[rwells]

I have the front cut apart at moment adding coil overs and building custom set of headers for it. Which means new hood design and body panels. All of this while moving into new shop, retail store, and showroom. ill post pics of new facilities once i get the mess straightened up. New web site with parts should be up in a week.

Penny and i want to wish everyone a Merry Christmas.

The Hobbie Shop
42 Winn Ave.
Winchester, KY. 40391
859-745-5080

[Gubni]

I think the tortus won the race against the hair. Slow and steady is the way sometimes.

[HANO]

Few people realize how long it takes to put a buggy together. It surely is a test in patience and stamina. One change adds weeks to a build. I know if I ever go off my rocker, I'll have to buy one the way I want it, and save the headache! Looks good. You should like the extra room over the purple rig. Looks like its getting close!

Forget Tortoise versus Hare, do it right and do it once. Think of all the fun and excitement for next year!

[Gubni]

Won't be much longer!

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug67.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug68.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug69.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug70.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug71.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug72.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug73.jpg

[99NCXJ]

Nice!

[Johnny Sherman]

wow...looking good!!!

[highrolrcustoms]

looks awesome...i bet that will flex like crazy!!!!!

[Gubni]

18" of travel on each corner should be pretty awesome. Maybe we can Richard to lift up a corner and see how far it goes? I hope the 4 link it set up properly to allow the travel.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

Really diggin the new design Sean.

[Want2Wheel]

Is there going to be any removeable protection on the back at the bottles? BTW it is looking good.

[Gubni]

Yep, fresh off the press - here's the tailgate pics.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug74.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug75.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug76.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug77.jpg

[The Tonka Toy]

Looks like it's coming along pretty good. I like it.

[highrolrcustoms]

are you sticking with those tires or gona go with another set

[Gubni]

It's getting 44's. He has two there for test fitting.

[The Tonka Toy]

Man I wish i could put some 44's on yota.. It's be bad haha

[JDG]

what happened to the purple chassis ?

[Want2Wheel]

I like it.

[Gubni]

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug78.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug79.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug80.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug81.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug82.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug83.jpg

[Gubni]

what happened to the purple chassis ?

It got cut up into scrap.

[Bluegill]

Lookin good Shawn! :kewl:

[Pitch]

the new digs ae looking good, when you gonna be rollin'

[Gubni]

I don't know. It's a slow work in progress. I hope any day now.

[Rtaylor]

I don't know. It's a slow work in progress. I hope any day now.

I know how you feel...

[Gubni]

what happened to the purple chassis ?

The builder cut it up and scrapped it.

[Gubni]

I'm going to get it Saturday! Finally after 7 months the 2 month project is done. :)

[highrolrcustoms]

Looks like its gona be well worth the wait!! Be sure to use a lot of extra tie down and drive careful....knowing my luck if it was mine I would end up losing it off the trailer before I made it home. Lol

[Bluegill]

Sweet! It will be awesome seeing it in action!

[Jeep07]

I'm going to get it Saturday! Finally after 7 months the 2 month project is done. :)

Feature creep will throw any project plan out of control. Glad its done and just in time for spring.

[Rtaylor]

Looks like a lot of us will be ready with our new rigs in the spring. We need to schedule a ride...

[Gubni]

We need to schedule a ride...

2011 Chinquipin ORP Schedule

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is a tentative schedule - which may change due to weather or other personal conflicts that may arise.

All dates are for the 2nd weekend of every month, until Sept. - then we're changing to the 1st weekend


Mar. 12

April 9

May 14

June 11

July 9

Aug. 13

Sept. 3 Labor Day weekend ** Poker Run **

Oct. 1

Nov. 5

[JKcaveman]

Shawn, that's great news. Going to be one awesome rig! I just hope you still get out with us mere mortals in your Jeep once in a while. I've sure enjoyed the trail rides we've gotten to do while you've been waiting on your buggy.

[Gubni]

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug84.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug85.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug86.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug87.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug88.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug89.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug90.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug91.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug92.jpg

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/newbug/newbug93.jpg

[Mountainman]

Looks good shawn!!

[Bluegill]

me likey! :kewl:

[highrolrcustoms]

yep thats my dream ride!!!! maybe i can talk my wife into her taking my jeep and letting me buy a buggy!!

[Gubni]

Wes has one for sale...

[99NCXJ]

Very nice! Very clean but bad at the same time.

You going to add some padding to that bar right by your head or is it not as close as it looks?

[Gubni]

I don't think it's close enough to worry about.

[tnzuk]

if it helps i will ride shotgun to make sure there is no issue with the passenger seat!!!!

really clean and really nice.

[Gubni]

disclaimer - I had this buggy built by a pro to KOH and XRRA spec. I think he did the best he could and he even dicounted the price because of the problems. I took it straight to Harlan. This is just a list to help me keep track of all the problems that need to be fixed. Some of these issues are not related to building the buggy although most are.

1. The hood rattled so badly that we took it off before hitting the trail.
2. Need to fit the body panels so they don't rub the paint off the tubing
3. Need to rotate the propane tank latches so they can be latched easily
4. Front drive shaft has a problem and binds - also popped the cap off the yoke
5. 18" coilovers have 4" of droop
6. Need to remove thin aluminum floors and put in removable panels
7. Redo tubing on sides to provide more protection
8. Install rear view mirror
9. Engine runs poorly - suspect timing
10. Oil guage leaks at block - maybe o-ring
11. dipstick tube leaks at oil pan
12. power steering leaks and belt loose
13. cooling fan hits shroud
14. grill is too small
15. no horn
16. hard to start - (this problem is unrelated to the builder)
17. bleed the brakes
18. fix seat adjuster so it is usable
19. adjust transmission shifter for better park position
20. install cup holders
21. make in cab storage for things like trail map or snacks
22. finish floor boards behind seat so shoulder straps don't hit exhaust
23. paint headers
24. finish cutting and install 44's (unrelated to builder)
25. oil change and fluid inspection (make sure enough fluids were installed)
26. fix loose battery cable
27. install brake pedal pin better than zip tie (that wasn't fun)
28. seal the large holes in the firewall
29. fit the transmission shifter to console better
30. bend handle of transfer case twin stick so they have enough room between them to shift
31. The rear axle hits the chassis with less than 2" of upward travel (every pothole)
32. paint the body panels (not part of original plan)
33. Clean up tubing from a mistake where welds were not ground off
34. remove bugger weld on tank mount and paint raw steel
35. add gussets to cage
36. mount first aid kit
37. mount fire extinguisher (I did not get the mount to him)
38. install wires to tach
39. fix damaged voltmeter light
40. label switches (I did not ask him to do this)
41. repair MP3 input that fell apart
42. fix bad feedback loop on CB
43. fix spliced wiring under hood
44. seal wires under hood like amp
45. clean up excess length of wires under hood
46. redo propane hose that is a stretch to hook up
47. make helmet mounts
48. order second key (unrelated to builder)
49. extend exhaust behind cab
50. rotate rear pinion down to match driveshaft better

Above just notes from first day. I'm sure there will be more.

51. Very little fuild in radiator - added one gallon of 50% antifreeze and it shows freezing point to be 20*. Need to drain water and fill with proper mixture.
52. Cab mounted winch controller got forgotten.
53. Finish welding cage - over 1" unwelded tube at dash area

[highrolrcustoms]

i guess with any build from the ground up there is always gona be problems but i know its discouraging. you see all the tv shows where they do a ground up build and nothing every goes wrong..but in reality there are always alot of behind the scenes work that goes on to make everything right. it will all come together with time. if you need any help with anything let me know.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

I wanna see Pictures of the shock issue. are you saying that the shocks are set to 14" of compression and only 4" of extension???

[Gubni]

They have about 3" of up travel. If I remember right he told me they have a total of 7" of travel. I'll post up pics later today.

[garlandg]

that's not a real bad list after the first shakedown.

[Gubni]

Two of my biggest problems are the roof on the front was supposed to extend past the steering wheel and the fenders are much taller and wider then the radiator which significantly reduces visibility.

[Hadfield4WD]

The rear axle should never hit the chassis. Do you have pics? Any bumpstops?

As far as the front goes just sounds like shock tuning. If it has the shaft for the travel you'll need to tune them to get the full travel. Valving and springs. There is always some trial and error on this.

[Gubni]

There are no bumpstops on the rear. I never had any on the old chassis. With air shocks I never needed them either. There is currently less than 2" of clearance.

Also I made it very clear that I wanted to keep a similar wheel base. I think it was 108 and he told me we had to stretch is 3". The klune V added 6" but a shorter front drive shaft and push the front 3" would take care of it. I measured 115" wheelbase last night.

It may work ok for wheeling. My problem is that it is not what I wanted. I made it clear what I expected to the best of my ability. I am very sad that there are so many differences between what he said he would do and what he actually did.

[Hadfield4WD]

If you're going to use this for high speed like XRRA and KOH then you need rear bumps. For slow speed no bumps is ok. But running fast and a big jump you bottom those airs then your done.

[99NCXJ]

Knowing how Shawn likes to drive (air time at times) air bumps on the rear might be a good investment. I still can't wait to see this buggy at Harlan. I am going to miss seeing the purple people eater though.

[Gubni]

I am going to miss seeing the purple people eater though.

Me too. I doubt this one will ever be as good as it was.

[Gubni]

Here's a few quick pics from Sunday. I'll try to get more this weekend.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap1.jpg
Most of his welds look good. Maybe he ran out of gas when this bugger weld was done. Also note that it's not painted


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap2.jpg
The skid plates are not recessed or even have the edges rounded off. That would cause them to catch on things. Also only 4 bolts were used to hold each one on. My other buggy had them about ever 6". As you can see one bolt already fell out of the main skid.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap3.jpg
The exhaust was only welded on the outside. Both sides of the engine are this way.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap4.jpg
This is a bad pic, but maybe you can see the unwelded part of the cage? This is the joint at the dash for the front fenders. It's also unpainted.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap5.jpg
Here's part of the battery box that is unpainted.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap6.jpg
This is a tab that broke. It was only held on by a small tack weld.


http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap7.jpg
This brake hose was moved when the coilover was put in, but not reattached.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

I gotta ask. How much did you pay?

Also your wheel base is going to be just fine. I now wheel with the group of guys you Hung out with in Harlan. I'm sure you saw that a couple had some huge wheel bases. Definitely run bumps of some sort. I found a set of bumps that I plan to run. They look like air bumps but use a memory foam instead.100 bucks per bump.

All I gotta say is. Fix what you don't like and go wheel.

[Gubni]

Ok basic chassis specs that I want. I want it KOH and XRRA comp legal and be able to jump it without worry. In order to get max jumping distance it needs to be as light as possible. Ok well just some comic relief. I want it to be light for better ability to climb vertical obsticles. I do drive it in the rain. With that in mind everything needs to be waterproof, sealed, and painted.

roof height of less than 82" (currently about 76" with 42s, but will have 44's soon)
wheel base of 108-112
Front frame rails of tube currently dead end. They should loop over to each other for a more finished look.
The rear lower propane tank support is too low and hits the rear diff.
I want a dome shaped roof design with recessed panels with at least 5" clearance from my head in any direction.
The roof needs to be sealed so that it is water proof and needs to extend past the steering wheel so that it does not drip on occupants when raining.
All tube fully welded at all junctions.
All metal primed and then painted - rust resistance is very important to me.
The front clip needs to be as close to the motor and radiator as possible for maximum visibilty but the motor still needs to be servicable.
The floorboards need to be easily removable to access or inspect the front driveshaft and transfer case.
The firewall should be a wall to fire and as such should be sealed.
No rattles clanking, banging, binding, etc when driven at a reasonable speed on a gravel road.

[Gubni]

I gotta ask. How much did you pay?

I'm sorry but I don't feel comfortable posting that. I know I made a mistake. Yes it was a costly mistake, but let's just leave it at that.

[Gubni]

One of my previous specs that did not get done was a primer lever for the propane. There's a button that needs to be hit when it's really cold out side. With a hood you can't get to it. Here's a kit to take care of that.

Link to propane primer cable (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180311782585)

[SamuraiGuyTN]

Sorry that was rather rude if me to ask like that.

I see what your trying to get at now. Yeah a koh buggy would be awesome.

[Gubni]

Sorry that was rather rude if me to ask like that.

I see what your trying to get at now. Yeah a koh buggy would be awesome.

Hey, not problem and I didn't think it was rude to ask. I don't plan to compete in KOH, but I think their spec is problably among the safest so why not.

[highrolrcustoms]

I have a question...maybe a stupid one but as far as the chassis goes does it have to be certified for competition...like drag cars do? If so did he build it good enough to pass?

[Gubni]

The don't have to be certified, but they have to pass safety inspection. This would not pass on many problems. I think he told me he used to build chassis for drag cars before he got into offroading.

Here's more pics

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap8.jpg
front coilovers on level ground

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap9.jpg
front coilovers on level ground

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap10.jpg
front coilovers on level ground

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap11.jpg
Less than 2" clearance on rear diff. I had this limiting strap on the old buggy, but had more clearance.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap12.jpg
Spagetti junction and no sealed connections.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap13.jpg
Why are those wires taped to the distributor wire?

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap14.jpg
Yes, that's the exhaust and that's also the hole behind the seat.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap15.jpg
Roof is just a few inches shy of covering the steering wheel.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap16.jpg
The exhaust is touching the firewall.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap17.jpg
How long are those hoses going to survive bouncing on the edge of that aluminum?

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap18.jpg
This is the front of the buggy. I thought I asked him to join the two sides with a couple of 90's to give it a more finished look.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap19.jpg
Unpainted area on the roof.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap20.jpg
Coilover is stretched to the max with the limiting strap he had me order.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap21.jpg
The ujoint is still in the safe zone, but not much more to go. Notice the cap busted off the yoke.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap22.jpg
The guage shows 10* off level.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/bugcrap/bugcrap23.jpg
With all that the front tire is less than 10" off the ground. All the flex is in the rear.

[Gubni]

On the good side I did make it to Mason Jar and back even though we both had sore backs the next morning from the rear diff hitting.

http://www.mustangfarm.com/forum/mason2.jpg

[tennbronco]

that was a bumpy bumpy ride !!!

[rockman]

Sorry it did not come out as expected. It looks pretty solid but needs finished. Is your builder ready to take it back for the final touches? I would think he would finish the body areas such as painting, welding, sealing, grinding, etc. It looks pretty good and some of the items would not be noticed by most.

[C.Berry]

Well sucks it took so long and now ya gotta put more work into it! looks good tho! hopefully ill get to see it at shine an crawl if ya go to mtn city before hand gimme a yell and we might tag along!?

[SamuraiGuyTN]

your links must be binding up. he triangulate them? I know Drake mentioned at one time that ya have to play with the geometry sometimes to find the right combo.

[Hadfield4WD]

your links must be binding up. he triangulate them? I know Drake mentioned at one time that ya have to play with the geometry sometimes to find the right combo.


No I don't think they are. The reason there seems to be no down travel is the limit straps are limiting the flex too much. Look at the picture. The limit strap is tight with only about 6" of shaft showing.

[Jeep07]

General Note:
I merged this thread with the original build thread where it belongs. If people have issues with that then PM me or call me out, whatever you feel is appropriate.

[tennbronco]

General Note:
I merged this thread with the original build thread where it belongs. If people have issues with that then PM me or call me out, whatever you feel is appropriate.

:)

[zuk_freak]

I just love how people sweet talk about the legit about a post as this, It really cracks me up. Dont take delivery of something if you are not happy. Once money trades hands deal is a deal. No whining...Shawn Im not trying to be the bad guy here. But sounds like a case of take your lumps. Business is Business

I also agree dirty laundry is just that no where to air public.

Im by no means pointing fingers either. Ive had my butt cooked too.

I too work hard for my money and find value in my dollar (Lack of in this economy). I have too had issues with builders in past not doing things that they where suppose to do on their so called build list. Therefor I stopped all that non sense by building myself or buying already built.

So the question is who is in the right ? That is to be determined ? But I feel that it does not need to be public that is my gripe and my gripe only.

Now the hazing is done I will not comment anymore unless to clarify my spelling or wording.

Thanks and GOD BLESS THE US

[Gubni]

I just love how people sweet talk about the legit about a post as this, It really cracks me up. Dont take delivery of something if you are not happy. Once money trades hands deal is a deal. No whining...Shawn Im not trying to be the bad guy here. But sounds like a case of take your lumps.

So the question is who is in the right ? That is to be determined ? But I feel that it does not need to be public that is my gripe and my gripe only.



I think he did the best he could and he even discounted the price because of the problems.

See previous quote.

[rockman]

ok, now back to discussing how to get this rig ready for the rocks....

[Hadfield4WD]

I agree. Lets get it sorted out. I am working on a plan of attack for shawn. I'll get it out soon.

[Gubni]

Thanks guys. That's all I really want is to get it done right and in a way that will last for many years of going through lions den and can opener. :)

[tennbronco]

not sure that is possible with you drivin it lol :)

[pplblazerdude]

This is just another in a long line of ignorance from various people.Folks need to learn how to handle things privately/discreetly and not post their whole lifes on the net and look for people to take their sides.Again I don't care either way,but this place sure aint what it use to be.

Ditto. Best of luck. Looks like a cool rig. Just fix her up and drive her like u stole it.

[C.Berry]

Ya got my number if i can help gimme a shout off at the track around 5

[Hadfield4WD]

Here is your punchlist broken up in sections. I find breaking it up in secitons that make sense is much easier to deal with.

Front Suspension
o Front drive shaft has a problem and binds - also popped the cap off the yoke
o 18" coilovers have 4" of droop
o power steering leaks and belt loose

Rear Suspension
o The rear axle hits the chassis with less than 2" of upward travel (every pothole)
o rotate rear pinion down to match driveshaft better

Cockpit
o Need to remove thin aluminum floors and put in removable panels
o Redo tubing on sides to provide more protection
o Install rear view mirror
o no horn
o fix seat adjuster so it is usable
o adjust transmission shifter for better park position
o install cup holders
o make in cab storage for things like trail map or snacks
o finish floor boards behind seat so shoulder straps don't hit exhaust
o install brake pedal pin better than zip tie (that wasn't fun)
o seal the large holes in the firewall
o fit the transmission shifter to console better
o bend handle of transfer case twin stick so they have enough room
between them to shift
o mount first aid kit
o mount fire extinguisher (I did not get the mount to him)
o label switches (I did not ask him to do this)
o make helmet mounts
o Cab mounted winch controller got forgotten.

Motor/Under hood
o Engine runs poorly - suspect timing
o Oil guage leaks at block - maybe o-ring
o dipstick tube leaks at oil pan
o cooling fan hits shroud
o grill is too small
o hard to start - (this problem is unrelated to the builder)
o paint headers (I would not do this. Get them ceramic coated if anything)
o Very little fluid in radiator - added one gallon of 50% antifreeze and it shows freezing point to be 20*. Need to drain water and fill with proper mixture.


Panels and Skids
o The hood rattled so badly that we took it off before hitting the trail.
o Need to fit the body panels so they don't rub the paint off the tubing
Wiring
o fix spliced wiring under hood
o seal wires under hood like amp
o clean up excess length of wires under hood
o repair MP3 input that fell apart
o fix bad feedback loop on CB
o install wires to tach
o fix damaged voltmeter light

Plumbing

o redo propane hose that is a stretch to hook up

Steering

Chassis and Paint
o paint the body panels (not part of original plan)
o Clean up tubing from a mistake where welds were not ground off
o remove bugger weld on tank mount and paint raw steel
o add gussets to cage
o Finish welding cage - over 1" unwelded tube at dash area

Misc
o Need to rotate the propane tank latches so they can be latched easily
o Bleed the brakes
o Finish cutting and install 44's (unrelated to builder)
o Oil change and fluid inspection (make sure enough fluids were installed)
o Fix loose battery cable
o Order second key (unrelated to builder)
o Extend exhaust behind cab

[Want2Wheel]

Now that is a good list to start from.

[Gubni]

Sorry, not much progress. I still have to finish putting the garage back together from my big clean up. I did get some parts ordered though.

The clip for the pin that holds the brake pedal to the master cylinder was missing. The pin was there but only a clip on one side. I found out when it fell out that he had neglected to put the other clip in. I got an e clip kit from harbor freight only to find out this one was rather unique. I called Wilwood and they are going to send me one for free!

I also got the vaporizor rebuild and cold start kit in yesterday.

[99NCXJ]

Those little e clips on brake pedals can cause big trouble when they fall out. I have plastic rear windows now because of one of those clips falling out.

[SamuraiGuyTN]

Ya could probably shorten the list a hair by not installing mirrors, save ya some time. probably end up breaking anyways and unless you plan on using them to signal for help, you may not use them. LOL

And the Horn. Im thinking air horn from a boat. Light weight, portable. Deffinitley gets people's attention.

ok something useful I can add. HA. how about rapping the headers instead of paint or ceramic??

[Gubni]

Ya could probably shorten the list a hair by not installing mirrors, save ya some time. probably end up breaking anyways and unless you plan on using them to signal for help, you may not use them. LOL

And the Horn. Im thinking air horn from a boat. Light weight, portable. Deffinitley gets people's attention.

ok something useful I can add. HA. how about rapping the headers instead of paint or ceramic??

First, thanks for the ideals.

I need a rear view mirror. I don't want wide mirrors as they would get torn off.

I ordered a marine boat horn, relay kit, and water proof horn button and had them shipped to the builder. When I picked it up he siad he never got any of the three items. I recently got tracking info and sent to him and asked him to look again. He did not reply. I'll probably just order the same stuff again.

I thought about wrapping the headers. I've been told that will hold in moisture and cause them to rust faster. Rust prevention is a main goal with painting them.

[highrolrcustoms]

im not a big fan of header wrap. i have seen a drag car with header wrap burn to the ground due to an oil leak that leaked on the wrap and caused it to ignite.

you can search google about header wrap fires and its pretty common

[pplblazerdude]

I have heard of the fire and it will rust the things out real fast. Will hold water and mud right against the headers.

[Gubni]

I got tracking for all the horn parts. There was a horn, relay, and button that were shipped from three sellers and he never got any of them. I reordered those parts today.

[HANO]

One more post about anything other than the build itself, such as calling out the the previous builder or the current owner of this rig, will cause the offending individual to be banned for an undisclosed amount of time. Bad things happen, people get duped, people get swindled and me personally I say you better chin up and move on. Anybody else from the peanut gallery who has nothing better to do than troll this thread, find somewhere else to go. Last warning. This is a build thread from here on out. If someone needs to vent about something or somebody, do it in a PM and keep the junk off the board.